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  #1  
Old 08-23-2011, 07:45 PM
zeke's Avatar
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crunched my front end



Need a new turn signal and headlight cover (~$200), but also bent and cracked front fender and bent the metal piece under the headlight. Trim is fine, and lights are fine and bumper is a little scuffed, but not bad enough to do anything about it

I have seen fenders for about $150 online, and I am guessing a spray will cost another few hundred bucks. What do I do about the metal piece under the headlight?

Also, how much should I expect labor to be to replace the fender? This is the '79, so I think the sheet metal is glued on....

so sad....


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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #2  
Old 08-23-2011, 07:47 PM
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Sorry to hear this, got pictures?

Which side? i have a headlight door and a turn signal for the passenger side, in used condition for a lot less than 200.

Yes you are correct, fenders are glued on... its not fun removing them, you'll need a good heat gun. The metal piece under the headlights is part of the fender, as well is the piece under the front bumper.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #3  
Old 08-23-2011, 08:11 PM
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Passenger side.

The thing is my wife calls this car the museum....It is (was) pristine.....

I didn't get a picture of the engine, but it appears to be rebuilt. Almost no oil and the valve cover stays clean enough to eat off of.

So if I get a replacement fender it will include the metal under the light?


Besides spraying the fender is this a DIY thing?

I can certainly replace the light cover and turn assembly....not sure about how to get the fender off and glued back on - is there a pictorial somewhere?
Attached Thumbnails
crunched my front end-2011-08-23_19-02-07_850.jpg   crunched my front end-2011-07-06_13-33-52_199.jpg   crunched my front end-2011-08-23_19-02-51_843.jpg   crunched my front end-2011-08-23_19-03-05_127.jpg  
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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #4  
Old 08-23-2011, 08:19 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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There are a few DIYs on the web.

Here's Edd China's: http://www.streetfire.net/video/wheeler-dealers-s01e10-mercedesbenz-w123-230e_635736.htm

About 5 minutes in.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2011, 08:56 PM
Yak Yak is offline
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http://www.picknpullsa.com/car_inventory.php

Price list say $28.

Last time I was there I think there were a few with good fenders. It's been a while though.

Current inventory shows a few candidates. Pulling from the JY gives you the practice to figure out where the hidden bolts are. Or someone can pull one for you. It's awful hot to be out there practicing.
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2011, 09:09 PM
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I haven`t tried this yet, but was told by another mercedes enthuiast , that spraying on some Acitone will soften up the rubbery under seal that glues the fender on. also was told MEK will work better, but is leathel to your lungs. you will need some type of spray bottle that the solvent won`t disolve in your hands.

The fender is sealed to the body along the top edge, but under the fender above the wheel. since there is no full splash guard like the later 123`s, the rebbery under seal keep the water etc from getting in between the panels.

The fender the guy is using in the video, looks like one from Tiawain. they are a crappy stamping. I have one I bought for my Datsun PU. sharp edges and lousy workmanship.
best to get a good used one if you need it. about $50 from PNP.

Your picture doesn`t look all that bad, and looks repairable. be good if you don`t have to remove it.

Nice looking car, too bad about the Boo Boo. looks like my 80.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #7  
Old 08-23-2011, 09:10 PM
zeke's Avatar
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no doubt, rough summer when 96° feels like a cool front.

Thanks for the link
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #8  
Old 08-23-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post

So if I get a replacement fender it will include the metal under the light?


yes
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  #9  
Old 08-23-2011, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
http://www.picknpullsa.com/car_inventory.php

Price list say $28.

Last time I was there I think there were a few with good fenders. It's been a while though.

Current inventory shows a few candidates. Pulling from the JY gives you the practice to figure out where the hidden bolts are. Or someone can pull one for you. It's awful hot to be out there practicing.
Parts are a little cheaper in Texas PNP. even have a list of people you can call to remove the part.
there is an 82 & 84 300D, those fenders would not be glued on.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #10  
Old 08-26-2011, 02:02 PM
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So if I replace the fender with either a year-matched replacement or a later non-glued type, what do I use to glue the new fender back on? How do I keep the water from rusting out the panels in the wheel well?
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
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  #11  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
So if I replace the fender with either a year-matched replacement or a later non-glued type, what do I use to glue the new fender back on? How do I keep the water from rusting out the panels in the wheel well?
You don't need the glue, it was old school Mercedes overkill to begin with.

THere are lots of bolt-head screws holding the fender on. Once you've finished re/re-ing the whole lot, you won't be worrying about adhesive.

If you feel the need to put something, just put on some silicone.

I am not sure what you mean about rust. Based on comparing my 1980 to my 1985, the older w123s only had a small plastic inner fender. The later cars had a more complete inner fender that runs around the wheel well to roughly behind the headlight.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:07 PM
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I have the fender from the 85, butter yellow, and probably all the rest of the parts--in DFW. 84 and 5 are not glued on with structural adhesive.
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2011, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panZZer View Post
I have the fender from the 85, butter yellow, and probably all the rest of the parts--in DFW. 84 and 5 are not glued on with structural adhesive.
mine comes up as maple yellow which I think is a little more saturated than the butter....can someone confirm that?



Zacharias, silicone sounds great...I thought I would be leaving a seam in the wheel well once I scraped the gunk out of the seam?
__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed


Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-26-2011, 07:16 PM
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Instead of $200 for headlight parts I would opt for a pair of euros, even depo euros are better than US lights by a long shot.
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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2011, 09:17 PM
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crunched my front end-euro1.jpg
is this what you are interested in?

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