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Old 09-19-2011, 04:43 PM
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OM603 front crank seal and oil pan questions:

Hello, anything I need to know regarding updates to the front crank seal on OM603 engines? The reason I ask is because when I went to order one from a (non-dealer) source, I was offered a choice between a viton and a teflon sealing surface. My vendor was not sure but seemed to think that the teflon was an updated part from the viton. The brands were Victor Reinz and Elring, FWIW. Both good brands IME.

I am new to this engine and any specific info regarding the replacement of this seal and the pan gasket is much appreciated. Should I use any chemical sealing product such as Permatex on the pan gasket or just install it dry? (After cleaning the surfaces really well of course). Thanks a million, I have very few posts here but ~14k posts on Pelican.

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Old 09-19-2011, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetrimmer View Post
Hello, anything I need to know regarding updates to the front crank seal on OM603 engines? The reason I ask is because when I went to order one from a (non-dealer) source, I was offered a choice between a viton and a teflon sealing surface. My vendor was not sure but seemed to think that the teflon was an updated part from the viton. The brands were Victor Reinz and Elring, FWIW. Both good brands IME.

I am new to this engine and any specific info regarding the replacement of this seal and the pan gasket is much appreciated. Should I use any chemical sealing product such as Permatex on the pan gasket or just install it dry? (After cleaning the surfaces really well of course). Thanks a million, I have very few posts here but ~14k posts on Pelican.
Teflon is the original formulation Viton is the upgraded part. Be aware that you may have an issue with the crankshaft hub on which the seal's lip rides. A worn hub surface will cause a new seals lip to fail prematurely.

Once you get to the hub/balancer/pulley pulling part of the procedure do not use a three arm puller to the outside edge of the balancer, it's a two part rubber adhered unit that will get damaged. After you loosen and remove the 27 mm crank bolt, look into the need of the crank note and mark the orientation of the keyway, reinstall the crank bolt and turn the engine so that the keyway is facing upwards to prevent the key from falling into the timing case when the hub is pulled! The correct method is to remove the M6 cap screws that hold the pulley to the balancer/hub and then use a puller which is attached to the balancer hub with three M6 bolts.

For the pan gasket no sealer is required but a very thin layer does help to keep it in place while assembling things.

In that you are getting that deep into things something to consider is replacing the oil pump chain, its chain guide and tensioning spring as it will never be as convenient to get it done.
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:54 PM
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chain guide and tensioning spring

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