Trying to compile thoughts on coil spring compressors - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #1 12-19-2011, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Not that the Hooked shaped Compressor that I made has 1" Threaded Rod and that did not bend. So it is not impossible for a Claw type Spring Compressor to work it is just that no Company makes ones that are strong enough.

Your 1" threaded rod has a yield strength in tension of approx. 35,000 lb. if you used mild steel.

The tensile load on the rod was probably on the order of 2,000 lb. or less.

The reason that you had to use 1" rod was to overcome the massive bending moment caused by the fact that the load was not aligned with the centerline of the rod.

On the Klann, or the clones, the load acts almost perfectly down the center of the actuation screw............thereby ensuring no bending moment on the screw............and allowing no risk in fully compressing the spring.

Any of the purchased side pull compressors with threaded rods of less than 1" are not satisfactory for the task.

Diesel911 · #2 12-18-2011, 01:51 PM

Home made spring compressor not mine
Homemade Spring Compressor - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I made the 2 below Spring Compressors from fine threaded 1 Inch rod.

The one on the left pulls the Spring up into the Spring Pearch and holds it there. You can actually un-collaspe the Spring and remove it; but it is a lot of turning to un-thread the Nut.

The other one with the hooks was made so that I would have something to remove the Mercedes Springs but at the same time be able to use it on something else besides a mercedes.

So if you use some common sense regarding the safety issue it is possible to make a usable item yourself.

vstech · #3 12-19-2011, 12:00 AM

on the 124, the spring is contained in a shorter area, and the clone tool is possible to use, but difficult... the Klann with the short shaft is the correct tool for the 124. without it, you will be fighting the threaded portion of the compressor getting in and out of the car with the spring.

I've used the clone, and the klann. I'd only use the clone on the 126, as the hole is bigger. but I don't like to dremel on my cars.
I've rented out the clone and the klann. I've never had issues with either.

Brian Carlton · #4 12-19-2011, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

on the 124, the spring is contained in a shorter area, and the clone tool is possible to use, but difficult... the Klann with the short shaft is the correct tool for the 124. without it, you will be fighting the threaded portion of the compressor getting in and out of the car with the spring.

I've used the clone, and the klann. I'd only use the clone on the 126, as the hole is bigger. but I don't like to dremel on my cars.
I've rented out the clone and the klann. I've never had issues with either.

Would you know if the latest clone from Baum is a bit narrower in the body and will fit the W123 without modification? Rumor has it............???

vstech · #5 12-19-2011, 12:19 AM

mine is wide, I've not heard this rumor...
I've often wondered if the clone could work if milled down... NO way I'm trying it, just wondering.
the difference between the clone and the Klann is hardly anything!!!

Brian Carlton · #6 12-19-2011, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the difference between the clone and the Klann is hardly anything!!!

...........about .070" on the diameter...........

biopete · #7 12-19-2011, 07:18 AM

Something else to keep in mind -- two different sizes of plates . I borrowed the Indie mechanic's spring compressor tool to do front control arms on my W124. Not sure if it was the Klann or the knock off. It had two sets of plates with it. One time he gave me the smaller plates. They worked like a charm just like the Klann video

The next time i used it i grabbed the wrong set of plates, the bigger ones. It was a pita to get it, had to go upside down, in from the top. . I think the W126 uses the bigger plates or something. But some tools might have "universal" size that won't be as ideal for the W124.

vstech · #8 12-19-2011, 08:35 AM

the bigger plates are for the rear springs... so, they are not needed, as the subframe dropped safely releases the springs in the rear.

charmalu · #9 12-19-2011, 12:06 PM

First time I used mine was at PNP removing the front springs from an old 240D.
with the cars sitting up on those welded rims for stands, the suspention hangs down, and the spring has a curve to it. after hand filing the hole down with a rasp, which seemed to take for ever.
I place in the lower plates and upper and slide the rod in, well the rod is straight and the lower plate is off a bit. after fiddling with it, I get the rod in, but can`t get it to lock in securely with the lower plate. now it is in a bind, and cant get it to release, and my tool is stuck.

Jacks are not allowed, and I even scoured through several rows of cars looking for an elusive jack. It is getting close to closing time and Iam in a panic, can`t leave my tool in this car over night.

Don`t remember what I did but finally got it to release. then moved the lower plate up a coil or so and compressed the spring. It didn`t compress it enough to remove it, so I had to remove the nut for the upper control arm and lower steering knuckle, once it dropped I got the spring out. It was compressed enough it wasn`t a problem.

Man what a learning experience.

Charlie

vstech · #10 12-19-2011, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

First time I used mine was at PNP removing the front springs from an old 240D.
with the cars sitting up on those welded rims for stands, the suspention hangs down, and the spring has a curve to it. after hand filing the hole down with a rasp, which seemed to take for ever.
I place in the lower plates and upper and slide the rod in, well the rod is straight and the lower plate is off a bit. after fiddling with it, I get the rod in, but can`t get it to lock in securely with the lower plate. now it is in a bind, and cant get it to release, and my tool is stuck.

Jacks are not allowed, and I even scoured through several rows of cars looking for an elusive jack. It is getting close to closing time and Iam in a panic, can`t leave my tool in this car over night.

Don`t remember what I did but finally got it to release. then moved the lower plate up a coil or so and compressed the spring. It didn`t compress it enough to remove it, so I had to remove the nut for the upper control arm and lower steering knuckle, once it dropped I got the spring out. It was compressed enough it wasn`t a problem.

Man what a learning experience.

Charlie

hint for use on these situations...
install the rod into the spring with the socket and an extension on the tool it makes it SOOOOO much easier to align stuff, and get the plate hooked in.

ds190 · #11 12-19-2011, 12:08 PM

Any difference known between the compressor in the red box v. the one in the blue box, besides the color of the plates?

My Christmas present to me is one or the other.

benedict · #12 12-19-2011, 08:59 PM

I'm saving up for a Klann as it is the only thing I will trust with my life.

I had one break when working on my Vette and when the spring opened up, it left a hole about 1inch deep in the concrete.

Just scarry how much energy is stored in a compressed spring.

vstech · #13 12-19-2011, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

I'm saving up for a Klann as it is the only thing I will trust with my life.

I had one break when working on my Vette and when the spring opened up, it left a hole about 1inch deep in the concrete.

Just scarry how much energy is stored in a compressed spring.

and the vette spring is 1/10th the pressure of an MB spring.

the clone tools are PERFECTLY safe. plenty of strength in that design. ONLY use the clone of the Klann, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE EXTERTERNAL SCREW CLAMPS!!!!!
only trust center bolt with dual plate style compressors.
it's a good idea to regrease the tool after each use.

I ABSOLUTELY love my Klann, and I have the style with both the short and the long shafts.
it is available for rent, and if you only need if for one job, that's the way I'd do it.

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only!

benedict · #14 12-20-2011, 05:21 AM

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only![/QUOTE]

If you wern't (according to google maps) 16,256 miles or 56days 9 hours away from me, then I'd take you up on your offer.

Google is a funny thing - some notes it added were:-
Driving directions to Sydney from NC, USA3D2D

This route has tolls.-
This route includes a ferry.-
This route crosses through Japan.

That's some ferry ride!

vstech · #15 12-20-2011, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only!

If you wern't (according to google maps) 16,256 miles or 56days 9 hours away from me, then I'd take you up on your offer.

Google is a funny thing - some notes it added were:-
Driving directions to Sydney from NC, USA3D2D

This route has tolls.-
This route includes a ferry.-
This route crosses through Japan.

That's some ferry ride!

heh, just imagine what THAT ferryman would charge...
yeah, i'm thinking the shipping alone would exceed the week's rental...