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#1
12-21-2011, 01:50 PM
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Transmission Flange Nut
I'm in the process of swapping the transmission flange from a R107 to a W123 transmission.
I understand that the flange nut is designed as a one-time use item, presumably because of the way the nut is staked to the output shaft once the nut is torqued. Because, in this particular situation, there is a different flange involved, it is entirely possible that the place that the stake ends up will be in a different position, say 45 degrees or more from the original. If this turns out to be the case, would it be acceptable to reuse the nut? I'm thinking that it may be OK because a fresh portion of the nut would be holding it in position and this is not a torque-to-yield kind of item. Opinions and thoughts please...
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Current Stable
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#2
12-21-2011, 04:07 PM
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You may be able to re-use it if it can be staked in another spot. You also might consider degreasing the Nut and Shaft Threads and using some Loctite along with the staking.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#3
12-21-2011, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Hopefully others will chime in to confirm or dissent with the thinking.
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Current Stable
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#4
12-21-2011, 08:58 PM
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Just changed out the flange and tightened the flange nut. The point where the original stake was made on the nut is almost exactly 180 degrees out from where it needs to be staked now.
Barring any rationale to the contrary I'm going to re-use the existing nut. I can certainly see why MB has that nut staked, as the nuts on both the 300D tranny and the 380SL tranny were almost effortless to take off without even un-staking the nut before trying.
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Current Stable
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#5
12-21-2011, 10:41 PM
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I just bought the exact same nut for the diff on the 300SE. It's the pinion shaft nut.
It cost me a whopping $6.00.............and I'm not sure if I can get over the fact that you could use the old one.........again............. 
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#6
12-21-2011, 11:30 PM
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I pulled the Driveline off the 240D to have the U-Joint & center Support bearing replaced. I have always noticed since we have had this car, there was a lot of slop when rotating the shaft back and forth. passed it off as wear in the gears from over 300K.
After removing the shaft, I noticed the Trans Flange was loose and wobbly along with the nut. I removed the Flange and another one from the spare trans. the wobbly one had the splines worn to a point, the spare had flat sides and top. I used the nut from the spare trans, and the staked part was maybe 180 from where it lined up before. Just did this a few weeks ago, so not all that many miles yet, but much smoother and quiet. Don`t see why it would work, and would need a new one in this case. using the same one again on the same trans would be iffy. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#7
12-22-2011, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
I may swap it out for a new one later, but for now I'm going to give this a shot.
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Current Stable
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#8
12-22-2011, 11:18 AM
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If it is Torqued properly and well staked I cannot see how the Nut would turn off.
Even more so if Loctite was also used. Note: There is no need to worry about not getting a Nut off if Loctite is used as it easily melted with moderate heat from a Propane Torch or even one of those small hand held Butan Torches. I was told a long time ago that when Nuts are used on Bolts or the like that the full strength is calculated so that after the nut is on there must be at least 3 full threads sticking out past the Nut after it is installed.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#9
12-22-2011, 11:28 AM
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About 5-6 months ago, this blasted little nut spun off its shaft. The transmission output flange had one dog ear which was toast. Long story short, a royal PITA and expensive by the time I got finished, EG: 2 new flex joints (mine had tears in them), output flange $120+, driveshaft center bearing, et cet., so learn from my little breakdown -- torque correctly, lock-tite, et cet as the others say. I had this car for about 4 years and no signals
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