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  #1  
Old 02-08-2002, 07:37 PM
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low quality replacement keys?

Hi,

I got a replcement master key from MB, by giving them my VIN. I got it, and noticed that while it looked pretty much the same, the black body was actually slightly bendable. Also, the top had a piece that looks like it snaped in to keep the key together. All in all, I dont really care, but I dont like the plastic portion to be slightly flexible, as I feel it give when unlocking the car or holing the starter cranking.
Has anyone else noticed this? Any ideas how to fix it? I was thinking a little low viscosity glue, liek duco cement inside. Dont knwo what it would do, but perhaps its worth a try. Unless someone else has an idea. Thanks

JMH

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  #2  
Old 02-08-2002, 08:43 PM
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You have the standard MB key -- all six MB keys I have are exactly as you describe. Aftermarket keys for older cars may have a solid head, but mine go back to 1972, so I think MB has used a short blank for a very long time.

I remember my college friend's BMW key was like that, too.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2002, 04:12 PM
turbodiesel300
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Just wondering how much did it cost you for a new key? I need a replacement as well.
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2002, 06:51 PM
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Mine were $25 each at one of the local dealers...had to give them the VIN and wait a few days.

Mike
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2002, 09:27 AM
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Unless you are a stickler for originality, why can't you just get a key from a key shop? They are solid metal and have a nice big "handle".
The brand name on mine is ILCO, and the number is an X83-MB39.
On the other side it says "FOR MERCEDES".

I paid $3/key at my local PNPull.
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1981 300CD (Benzina)
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1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
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  #6  
Old 02-10-2002, 11:44 AM
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W124 and W126 keys are laser-cut, can't be made by a hardware store. Later models often have electronics in them, too, same deal.

The other difficulty is that unless a good locksmith makes them "by the numbers", you are just duplicating a worn key -- sometimes they won't work properly.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2002, 12:16 PM
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For older cars, like a W123, you can just get a copy at a good locksmith - IF you have a non-worn original for them to copy! I just got some done for my W123, they were $3 each. My "originals" from the PO were just copies, and they were worn. I ordered one master from the dealer and had copies of that made for $3. The dealer wanted ~$25 each! Ouch. One note: The OEM keys are steel. The copies are brass. Ever notice a little pile of shavings under your ignition lock? If so, you probably are using a copy, not a steel original!

For newer cars, W201, W124, W126, etc they are laser-cut like Peter said. Some very competent locksmiths can make copies of these, however they will be brass copies, not steel - same as above. And, in this case, the OEM keys are CHEAPER than the brass copies! The dealer wanted $17/each, the only locksmith in town that could do it wants $25/each! That's a no-brainer... 25% less for a steel VIN-cut original key!

Oh - about the cheesy top piece - yep, that's they way they come. You can dissasemble the key and look at it. It's a "flat" key with the plastic head snapped in place over it. I don't like it either but we don't have much choice, now do we? Only the older keys are like this, the laser-cut keys have a nice solid head.


Regards,
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2002, 02:48 PM
Randall Kress
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JHZR2,

I got the same thing when I got new keys... What this is, is a removable/replacable head, in case the black plastic gets destroyed to all hell (as they all do in time). If you were to hold the key up, on to its very tip (metal part down to a table) and push, you will see the plastic slide down, exposing another plastic bit used to lock it into place. You can get new heads... I've also heard they are flexable out of safety, for in an accident, studies showed the wrists/hands were broken on impacts due to hard keys... Hence, the bit flexes...
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2002, 05:55 PM
captaincrunch
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Where can I get just the plastic piece? Mine's broke!
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2002, 12:40 AM
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I got one at FastLane. I think it was called a Key Blank Head and it cost about $3 I think. I haven't put it on yet but it's an original part.

Alex
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2002, 01:00 AM
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If you make a cheap, soft brass copy of an already worn original key, then the copy will wear out that much faster, and most likely will not work any better than the worn original, and the metal particles (that Dave mentioned in his post) getting all inside your door and steering lock tumblers will cause friction and your locks/tumblers will not work as smoothly, and it will reduce their lifespans as well. OEM keys can cost more, but it's still cheaper than replacing locks/tumblers!

Ask me, I know!

Mike
__________________
_____
1979 300 SD
350,000 miles
_____
1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy
_____
1985 300TD
270,000 miles
_____
1994 E320
not my favorite, but the wife wanted it

www.myspace.com/mikemover
www.myspace.com/openskystudio
www.myspace.com/speedxband
www.myspace.com/openskyseparators
www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic

Last edited by mikemover; 02-12-2002 at 01:06 AM.
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2002, 01:12 AM
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My original key lasted 17 years until I had to order a new one (for more than $25). If we can spend as much as we do on oil and other items we use to pamper our cars, surely we can spare a dollar and change a year for good keys.

Alex

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