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  #16  
Old 03-02-2012, 10:35 AM
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Rolling in a new timing chain with the old chain stretched would have advanced the timing. I feel that was not a factor in making it smoke. It should have made it smoke less I would have thought if any noticeable differance at all. For the time it takes try blocking the butterflys open temporarily. Also perhaps remove the air filter temporarily and try it. As already mentioned you just may be low on oxygen supply.

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  #17  
Old 03-02-2012, 03:11 PM
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weather is keeping me from working, but i remember reading a test where you cover the oil fill for the IP with your finger to test the governor or membrane and when i did that the rpm raised, i gotta find which thread that was in. i still have to do the test with the hose off the governor. I took a better look at the smoke when idling its grey, when driving its pretty grey, when idling i hit a little gas its bluish grey and when i hit the pedal quite a bit it comes out pretty black, but i never see black when driving. i dont see any smoke when decelerating like in the other thread. so I'm thinking i have multiple problems. ill get a video when i can. but when i get a chance ill do some cleaning of the oil bath air filter. the intake has some oil so ill clean that, clean the hoses since the hose to the governor where it hooks up to the intake is a bit oily. also a while ago i took off the air filter connection to see if thats the problem and it made no difference in smoking... ill do it again when i get the chance. thanks for the replies.
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Last edited by diesellac; 03-02-2012 at 03:23 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2012, 09:39 PM
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If this earlier model develops intake vacuum greater than the later 616s. I do not know if it does or not. The valve guide seals might be more signifigant.

Perhaps a factor for oil consumption. I would do a little research in the archives for that area. I do not understand the butterfly issue as much as I should. Generally valve guide seals do not make a great difference on the later 616s. Unless totally shot or a valve guide is loose in the head.



The old style check for the condition of valve guide seals is kind of universal. Take the car up to say thirty miles an hour with someone following. Release the pedal for a few seconds. Come back on the fuel just enough to restore speed. Did the person following see a big blue puff of bluish smoke out the rear? For the moment it takes to check also see if there is any oil coming up the line to the intake from the vacuum pump.

Do you have any ideal of the average oil consumption of this engine? What is the blowby like with the engine warm? Will the oil filler cap stay on when loose? Dances a little? I just mention these things on the off chance you have not already done them. You probably know more about engines than myself.

Last edited by barry123400; 03-02-2012 at 09:54 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-07-2012, 10:22 PM
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Little update

I did the test with the governor w/o gauge. I always noticed a click when I pulled on the start knob. so when I did the test I put my finger on the hole where the hose goes and pulled the ignition knob (start position/not cranking), it clicked with my finger covering and I hardly felt suction. so theres a leak somewhere... I plan to take a look at the diaphragm when I get a chance.

I also cleaned the intake, it was oily but no grease. took a look at the blow by, I unscrewed the cap and the cap jumps a little, but no flying carpet. forgot to clean the oil bath will do that soon.

looked at the smoke its harder to see, but it might be because its warmer. theres a strong diesel smell to it.

I did an Italian tune up, grey smoke everywhere, i did it at night so ill see if the smokes any better tomorrow.

when listening to the idle its very smooth with a little injector knock (ill balance and clean my old ones once my buddy welds my pop tester.) but when idling sometimes I hear light idle fluctuation, is that another symptom of a governor leak?

When driving its peppy, and hitting the pedal I usually can feel the torque. but other times it kinda just moves, like a slug. what could that be? bad kickdown? dirty filters?

And for timing chain stretch does the engine have to be cold? I still gotta do that.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2012, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesellac View Post
Little update

I did the test with the governor w/o gauge. I always noticed a click when I pulled on the start knob. so when I did the test I put my finger on the hole where the hose goes and pulled the ignition knob (start position/not cranking), it clicked with my finger covering and I hardly felt suction. so theres a leak somewhere... I plan to take a look at the diaphragm when I get a chance.
You are not following the procedure. First put the pump into the stop position (lever forward), whilst keeping the lever in that position, cover the hole with your thumb. Release lever, now – after a little while – release your thumb. You should be hearing a click as the rack is pushed back to the full-load position. See also page 1.
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  #21  
Old 03-08-2012, 10:41 AM
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In stop position i covered the hole then put into start position (my finger still holding) when i pulled it clicks when i'm still covering the hole. what am i doing wrong? do i have to detach the gorilla knob from the pump?
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  #22  
Old 03-08-2012, 11:42 AM
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Sorry, I misunderstood you.

When you hear a click before you remove your finger, than there is a leak. It can be the membrane or the axle of the poppet cam. You can try dousing both sides of the poppet cam axle with oil, so that it seals.

The alternative is to remove the governor and inspect the membrane, although leaks and holes are not always easy to spot.

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