Mercifully the E300 has been going well the past few years and I have therefore paid it little attention. So much so, I am past due on a transmission fluid change and am unwilling to cut loose of the $450 requested by the dealer.

Background: Have about 130k on the clock probably 45k since the last change and I presume the previous owner did nothing as it was "lifetime" Last time I changed it I just guessed and took it to the dealer and they ended up taking a quart out for $90 bucks, but I knew it was at the right level anyway. I have the dipstick but no thermal gun.

So, some questions.

* How hard is it to do this right?
* Last time I could never figure out how the bloody fluid would be removed from the torque converter - how do I accomplish this? Do I need a MightyVac?
* I thought I read somewhere that one could upgrade to a newer grade of MB fluid over the original - Fact or Fiction?
* I believe there are a couple of o-rings that prudent folks like we have here would change - what might those be?
* Do most fanatics now put some type of magnet in the bottom of the pan? Is there a MB # for it?
* What is a "reasonable" infrared temp scanner cost? And advise on where to get?
* Anything else I need to be looking at while I'm at it? Transmission mounts?
* General thoughts etc would be greatly appreciated, especially if I am missing something other then all the directions on how to do it.

Thanks!

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raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg