85 300TD transmission 3-4 flaring/slipping

[tomas_maly]

I recently replaced the K2 spring to help with the 3-4 shifting and now it seems worse. It's at the point where it slips entirely and if I don't push and release the pedal at the right moment/way, it won't shift into 4th.

I detached the vacuum line entirely and 1-2, 2-3 shift firm, but 3-4 still flares. After an hour of driving, 3-4 stopped shifting entirely. I put the vacuum line back on and now am reverting to the pedal "push-release" to shift into 4th. Now, oddly, the shifting is a lot higher than expected, close to 3100 RPM for 3-4, when 1-2 and 2-3 shift at 1500RPM. The bowden cable is as loose as possible (white nut inward).

I noticed the other day that there was fluid slightly leaking from the transmission pan near the bolts, and so I tightened the pan a bit more. I think the leak is mostly sealed, but I'm wondering if this in any way might cause shift problems. About 2 months ago I drove the car for about 30 miles with the tranny pan put on wrong (one corner was tightened way too hard) and it was leaking major fluid - and I instantly noticed random flaring - but not as consistent as this 3-4 flaring I notice now. The pan got bent in one corner, so I swapped it from another vehicle's. If it's leaking at all, it's barely anything.

A diagnosis manual I have suggests the governor may be the culprit - it's general failure suggests either excessively late shifting or 3-4 slipping. Are there other signs of a bad governor?

Or it could be the K2 clutch, which requires tranny removal/disassembly, AFAIK.

Is it possible to remove the governor while the transmission is still attached to the engine, by lowering the rear crossmember? There doesn't seem to be much room on the W123's (compared to the W126's).

[tomas_maly]

BTW, the fluid and filter was changed probably <5,000 miles ago.

[tomas_maly]

Also, what are the chances of being able to pull a transmission off the vehicle with just jackstands and/or cinder blocks? I have a manual on how to disassemble it, but am curious about the clearance required (inches between the ground and the bottom of the chassis) in order for the tranny to be able to slide out from underneath (on some sort of jack).

Is there a typical amount of hours it would take a novice to remove the transmission? I'm just trying to get a feel whether to do it sooner or put it off for later and focus on the other car for the time being.

[Govert]

The 1985-300TD uses a vacuum transducer, right? First make sure the vacuum is 100% OK, or it will shift oddly.

You will like a transmission lift for the removal.

[tangofox007]

Originally Posted by tomas_maly

Also, what are the chances of being able to pull a transmission off the vehicle with just jackstands and/or cinder blocks?

When it comes to putting a vehicle on cinder blocks, you need to be concerned about your chances of winding up in the morgue. Don't even think about it.

[charmalu]

X2, when I read Cinder Block, gave me shivvers.

Man Crushed working on car

PSA: PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

Safety First.


Charlie

[tomas_maly]

I was actually thinking of only using something like cinder blocks/jackstands/etc to hold the car AFTER the transmission was detached, so I could slide the transmission out (I'm assuming from the rear is easiest?). I'd never sit under a vehicle for hours without at least two of the wheels being firmly on the ground.

I'm just curious how high the car needs to get in order to clear the bellhousing + jack, and if jackstands go that high. Or maybe someone has a recommendation on how to get the car high enough when I don't have a car lift (I just have an ordinary 2-car garage).