Wonder if it would work for sub frame mounts as well?
Engine mounts for my jeep are ~ $200 each. was dreading replacing them.
Rear sub frame mounts on the 124 are on the way out as well.
There are plenty of other rubber/metal mounts about. This may be a cheap replacement especially for the unobtanium ones.

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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I would be curious to see your pics on this project. Did you put the aluminum insert into the cup and pour the urethane around it, or did you just fill the cup with urethane and bolt the shock to straight urethane?

One of my metal bushings was stuck to the shock, the rubber completly eaten up from a previous oil leak from the pcv drain not being connected, the other was rotted out in the cup and the two came apart in my hands, as well as being worn from the shock bouncing up and down in it!!

Tomorrow I'll be tracking down flexane 80, and monday hitting the yard to get another aluminium cup insert. Unless you have had a good experience eliminating the insert and just filling the cup with urethane?

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

Well what i did was gutted the inside of the metal mount and cleaned my aluminum cup. I then poured the mould around half fill. Then i pushed the aluminum insert into the mould and centered it. Wiped off all the excess flexane that pushed out. After a few hours and a half cure i pushed a drill bit through the aluminum insert hole. I was also worried before i gutted my mount if the aluminum cup insert was going to be bad inside. I decided if it was i was just going to fill the mount with just flexane and let it fully set. Then set a big washer on the top so there was no way the shock could ever pull through...however after seeing my flexane at 100 percent cure i would say you wouldnt even need the washer. Just fill and drill. Hope this helped some

Excellent work and goes to show what can be done.

I came across a similar thread this time concerning ball joints on a Mercedes forum I frequent in the UK.Basic principle to achieve a repair as per engine shocks but using high pressure injection to get the material forced in.

ABC Shock absorbers - removal, refitting and ball-joint repair - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

I fixed the engine damper mount in my 84 300D by removing the degraded rubber and filling the annular gap with woven fiberglass. I saturated the sheet with epoxy, rolled into 4 layers, and stuffed in the gap. I then filled both sides flush with epoxy (2-part tube from 99 cent store), then spray painted black. I'll re-post if it fails in the next year, but I doubt it will.

The damper itself is reasonable (mine were fine). It is just upper mounts that are $$$. A new mount is an unbelievable $170 on ebay. I got new rubber cones for the bottom from gowesty (good prices). Fiberglass can be bought at Ace or Home Depot (I had).

The bad engine damper was on the right side and the right motor mount was collapsed. I installed a Chinese mount ($8). I should have filled it with urethane per above posts. The left mount was fine, but missing a damper so I borrowed from my in-work 85 300D, so my son could drive the 84 back to school.

The engine appears to shake less at idle now. The air cleaner used to vibrate terribly, because the bracket was badly cracked. I got a new one for $16 from gowesty and new bushings. While in there, I changed all seals on the 2 oil drains and cleaned the gunk. I can't describe the mess made after the p.s. belt cut thru the upper oil cooler hose on the left side, after the AC belt broke (flipping p.s. belt over). Fortunately, my son was close to home so some oil remained in the pan.

brilliant! I was just thinking about reinstalling my engine shock mounts but as you discovered stupidly expensive! More importantly, strangely, finding the motor mounts for a w115 300d almost impossible -now I can use this trick to rebuild my old mount! Thank you!

Diesel Addiction

Installing new motor mounts on my SDL was more than the right shock mount could take after 25 years and 422k miles.

The entire rubber center came loose as I retightened the shock after installation of new motor mounts.

When I finslly recovered over the realization of the shock mount part price, I managed to find your alternative fix and am curious on two points:

How is it perfoming after 11 months?

Did you use the Flexane metal primer (FL-10) to prep the surface for a stronger bond?

Homemade Polyurethane Engine Mounts - bushings

.

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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Yeah this is the case of the Toyota MR2 I have. None of the engine mounts are actually made anymore, leaving people to create some wierd solutions like poly motor mount inserts.

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Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
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Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler

Hey figured I would give an update on my engine shock mounts.
I did not use metal primer as all I had to do was scuff up the metal a bit to get the flexane to hold.

I have driven my Mercedes daily since the new mounts were installed and I must say they are holding up well.
I also made them weatherproof so no oil or grunge saturates the rubber.
Have made a couple members some Engine shock mounts and so far all are very satisfied.

Hope this thread helps others, as this website has been irreplaceable when working on my MB.

.

Indispensable this site is. This thread has helped me, I redid my mounts same way, not on car yet, thinking spray on undercoating would be a good sealer...what did you use?

__________________
-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

Update. My son had the car home a week ago and I saw that the fiberglass-repaired engine damper mount was intact. I doubt one needs flexibility there since the damper moves. I might have just welded the 2 parts together if they weren't aluminum and steel. In the interim, I took a shock and mount off a 300SD at the junkyard (cheap), but found the mount differs. I was able to flip the mount over and use it in my 300D with some washer spacers. As many noted, the damper appears to do little with the engine running and was probably designed-in to minimize shut-off jerks for sensitive buyers.

That is exactly what I used to coat it. Simple but affective. And as far as the engine shock mounts not doing much...when they were worn out on my SDL it shook pretty bad.

WOW. The engine shock mounts werent nearly as expensive when I bought them through Phil for my 300CD about 1.5 years ago.

Hearing these prices, I hope I didnt throw away the old ones!!!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

T.T.T. .

This is a great thread ! .

I had a delivery valve leak and it killed my left upper engine shock mount , now I have a cheaper way to go .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better