Lately, I observed some strange when I try to start the diesel.

I turn the key to glow. After a few seconds after the light goes out, I turn the key further to try to start the car. Nothing happens. The starter motor won't turn.

If I turn the key back all the way to left and then try to start, it starts every time.

This does not happen all the time but is more frequent in the first start of the day, especially if I let it glow after the light goes out.

Is this an indication of a week starter motor?

TIA.

Bo:

I just swapped out a starter on my TD but it was acting very different than you described. On mine, the mechanism would start spinning before hitting the ring gear causing an awful sound (something like trying to start the car while running). In addition, a friend of mine (another 300TD) has a spinning problem where is simply spins and doesn't engage.
Wish I could help but these are the only two starter symptoms that I've experienced.
Good luck figuring that one out.

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

If you're not hearing the "click" from the starting solenoid it's most likely either the solenoid or the ignition switch is starting to go bad. I once had a starter solenoid that got very sluggish and worked intermittantly when it was cold but seemed to work fine in warmer weather or when the engine was still hot. Eventually it didn't work at all. This sounds like a similar problem.

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

lrg:

No, there was no "click" when it does not start. Just silence. Turn the key back and forward again always starts the car.

loubapache,

That is an odd one. My solenoid problem was not as predictable. Makes me think I'd start with checking the ignition switch. Good luck.

lrg

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

Thanks to all.

Just checked Fastlane and it seems I have to replace the whole starter with the slonoid. I do not see a solenoid separately.

lrg:

Mine was not predictable either. Very intermittent. Maybe a couple times per week.

BO,

Before you replace the whole starter, you might take the old one off and see if you can remove the solenoid and clean/oil it. I once got away with that on my E-Type and it's lasted for a few years now. I found that an internal contact mechanism would bind and using a small amount of Lith-Ease loosened it up. It wasn't a Bosch unit so I'm not sure you can do the same but it's worth a try.

lrg

__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one.I have the same exact problem. It's very strange sometimes there is a stall for a half second before it starts cranking. I do notice it more frequently during cold weather and if allowed to pre-glow after the light goes out. Again this only happens about twice a week. Sometimes if you hold the key in the staring position it will start cranking after about 5 seconds.

turbodiesel300:

Sounds like we are on the same boat.

I will try what you observed the next time I have this no star, i.e., by holding it in the number 3 position. I usually back it off immediately.

HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR ! Everybody.

The year of the horse and hope our "horses" run well.

Deleted.

Sorry, made a mistake.

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lrg:

Thanks for the advice.

When it warms up a bit here I will try that.

I heard removing the starter on a 123 diesel is a pain. How about from a 87 300TD Turbo (W124 diesel)? Anyone has done it?

Bo:

My little finger is still healing from that buzzard starter. What a heavy dog. I hope the newer model year has a lighter starter for your sake.
The other issue I ran into was that I had the car on ramps to have more clearance for work. This work well for the intial unbolting. I then had to roll it off in order to jack up the front end, turn the steering and snake it out. Kind of a pain.
There is a good post or two on the subject which tells how to get at the top, rear bolt (I used a 24" and a 7" extension together).
Best of luck to you!

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

In the last week I have had the exact same thing happen with my 87 SDL. 3 maybe 4 times the weather has been colder than usual 20s in the morning. I thought it might be the ignition switch and I was going to rig up a 12v indicator light in parallel with the ignition wire to the solenoid. I would make a connection at the solenoid and run the wire into the cabin through the fire wall, put a fuse and a 12v light in series and connect to a ground under the dash somewhere. I'll put the light right where I can see it when I turn the switch. I figured that if I get a lit light each time I turn the ignition switch to start its not the switch or the wire to the solenoid and if I get a lit light when the ignition switch is turned and the starter does not kick the problem would be the starter or its solenoid! If I don't get a light each tine the ignition switch is turned to start then I would connect my test lamp circuit to the wire at or near the ignition switch and to determine if the switch or the wire is faulty. I just figure that connecting to the starter solenoid will be quicker and easier than to the ignition switch inside the steering column to separate and determine which element, control (switch & wire ) or actuator (solenoid & starter) of the starting system is faulty. Any thoughts or analysis as to this diagnosis strategy are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks to all.

If it gets too cranky you can always learn to jump start it directly from the solenoid to the battery. On my '87 the starter & solenoid are below and somewhat behind the injection pump. On the solenoid there is a plainly visible screw on electrical connection. The engine can be easily started by turning the key to run, opening the hood, and jumping the contact on the solenoid to the positive battery terminal. Works like a charm. I learned this trick from an experienced old mechanic in Kerrville, Texas when my neutral start switch acted up on a road trip.