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#1
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You should have no continuity thru the switch at room temperature. If you put the switch in a pot of warming water on the stove, the switch should close at around 125*F.
If that is the exact switch that you have, keep in mind that you will loose your refrigerant if you remove it from the r/d. That is a very common sign of low refrigerant. Maybe try a hair dryer or heat gun on the in-car switch.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#2
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Quote:
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
#3
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the aux fan temp switch can be removed from the charged system. the pressure switch can not.
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
#4
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Just one question: Did you read post #6? (With special reference to the part about the telltale hiss.)
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#5
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That's what i first concluded from readings on the web, yet the hiss of escaping refrigerant suggested otherwise. Unless there's a valve type mechanism on the r/d that engages once the switch has been screwed out far enough. Or the AC shop slapped in some cheapo aftermarket r/d which has no barrier between switch and refrigerant.
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
#6
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On my '82 300D, engine compartment heat, on a really hot day, will occasionally trip my switch, even with the a/c not in operation.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#7
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Quote:
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
#8
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None that I could envision.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#9
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Could not get continuity at + 125F. Also no luck with the one on the car though less conclusive - can't be sure I'm getting it hot enough.
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'83 SD, 2x '85 SD You are entitled to your own opinions, you are not entitled to your own facts. |
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