Chris:

Thanks, will do.

Ron

I have been trying to salvage my window regulators and motors. One works, the other does not. I've swapped parts between the two motors and have isolated the problem to the 'base' of one of the motors. There is a small component on there that one end ties directly to 12v and is labeled 'MICROTHERM'.

Can I bypass this? After cleaning all the little components, making sure no wires or coils are broken, I think this is the culprit. The one motor that works has this same little MICROTHERM component and the little plastic housing was filled with water (I was assuming it was water) but it was not corroded at all. The other one was dry and corroded.

Not sure if any of this makes sense but here are some images. I think this could also save folks some £££ (or $$$). Sorry Photobucket won't rotate the images.

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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


1982 240D LHD/RHD & 300TD LHD / 1983 300SD LHD / 1986 300SDL LHD / 1992 300TD RHD / 1998 C250 TD RHD


www.repaircafeglasgow.org

No, don't bypass the switch. The thermoswitch cuts power when the window is at the end of travel. It does this by sensing the motor getting hot. Its important for safety as well as to protect the motor.

I hear what you're saying and am aware of what the switch does, but this thread stated at the beginning that there is a risk and that is the assumption made when attempting this bypass.

In the alternative, can I purchase a similar/new thermoswitch for a few quid, rather than buying the entire contraption that I don't need? The microtherm site has all kinds of options that could be soldered in, but I just don't know the voltage/tolerances/temperature sensitivity/etc.

Thanks for any insights!

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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


1982 240D LHD/RHD & 300TD LHD / 1983 300SD LHD / 1986 300SDL LHD / 1992 300TD RHD / 1998 C250 TD RHD


www.repaircafeglasgow.org

Just to add my cents worth ,if i can.The repair is fine . I replaced the whole item .The time i did mine i noticed after door card was removed ,that the deadening pads fixed to the inner door, had lifted all along the top edge .So as they were curling up, water was getting to the rear of them.With dirt and water it was going to rust out .Also a chance that if the pads do come away from the door they can fall on to the regulator arm and damage the motor as it is lifting the glass up. Just check it out .I am in a cold climate.If it can happen here i know it will in your locations.

Chris i have been on the OTTER site and they still do these switches . If you need one or two i can check them out and maybe post them .

This is some of the switches they make .Or just go to there site OTTER .

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Update: I soldered in a piece of copper wire. It worked, meaning that the motor worked when connected to 12v.

Now that I've isolated the issue (at least this particular issue), I can move forward from here. I'll check out the Otter products. Thanks all, Jon

Perhaps this is what I'm looking for: http://thermal-protection-controls.com/products/thermal-protection-and-control-products/thermostat-without-housing/d-series/D10V-A308.html

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1982 240d RHD OM605 & 5spd swap


1982 240D LHD/RHD & 300TD LHD / 1983 300SD LHD / 1986 300SDL LHD / 1992 300TD RHD / 1998 C250 TD RHD


www.repaircafeglasgow.org

Click on Thread Tools at the top, Subscribe, ... then you can always find it in your subscribed threads. Not the only way, but it's my "cheat".

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Thank You.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Nice thread - I just managed to get my motor to make noise after soldering a 14ga copper wire between the two posts as shown in the photo (opposite side of the plastic connector).

Should the "cog" on the front of the motor spin when power is applied? I hear the motor moving, but the main cog does not move. My motor only died as I was trying to remove the regulator.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Yes, the gear should spin. Here's a how-to on motor disassembly:

Wondow motor repairs - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Great link, however that is for rear window motors. My front motor has no screws to take apart the gear assembly. Is there any way to open it up? The #1 post has two lines on it, but I guess I don't understand how to back the gear out since its not spinning on me.

The original issue was that the window motor was grinding and stopped going down further (just grinding noise)...figured regulator was bad, opened door up and regulator teeth look OK, so must be motor...before I go buy a new motor, I wanted to see if mine could be saved)

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Geez these things have become expensive. Is this the motor you're talking about? I'm not sure if I have one of these downstairs, and I don't remember how they disassemble, but it can't have been too difficult. What's inside the gearbox is a single gear, which is driven by the worm on the motor. The big gear and the small cog are pressed together. It sounds like the motor is fine, but the worm isn't engaging the driven gear. It could be a stripped gear, or the worm may be misaligned due to wear on a spacer or washer. I would suggest you start by separating the motor from the gearbox, and see what comes out.

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I have no ideal of what new motors cost. Usually just have a few on hand acquired from similar junked cars. For those that live near pick and pulls can save you real dollars.