Question on flywheel balance, i screwed up. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #1 07-04-2012, 12:59 PM

I have only done swaps with 616s but IF theres a mark there, you will see it using emery cloth around the center hole. Its stamped in, about a half inch long. I wish I had taken the time to see if there were marks on the crank and f/w when I recently put a clutch in my TD. On the 616s most had no marks.

Markp · #2 07-09-2012, 06:14 PM

Hi everyone. I got it all done and it works great. No vibrations that I can notice, from FW or DS. I only had the car up to 60 today on a back road, but it seems totally smooth. I do notice the very minor buzz when lugging 3rd, but no big deal at all.

Clutch works great, shifting is good, engine runs very smooth/quiet, sounds great. All seems well EXCEPT!:

The engine i installed was under my bench for like 5 yrs, I pulled it from a good running 85 TD that I drove 250miles to its final resting place. The engine ran well, had good power, little to no blow by, which is why i pulled it.

Anyway, after I installed it it would not start, tried for hours.

Fuel system was definitely primed, GP's all new and working.

I decided to inspect the shut off valve and it seemed to work fine, then i decided to remove the top cover off R section of pump to see what the shut off valve actuates (please note that I have experience with VE pumps, but virtually no experience with these inline pumps)

The thing that the shut off valve contacts was stuck in the off position. I free'd it up, put it back together and then it started right up.

Then after checking everything out, finally took it on a drive. What a dog!

I knew it may feel slow after driving my Audi for a few weeks, but this was way to slow.

It is slow to build boost, max boost like 8psi but needs alot more time then the old engine. The ALDA is fine, banjo clean, etc.

I have not messed with it too much today, but what I am seeing is that the throttle lever does very little until it is 1/2 open. I adjusted the throttle stop a bit and that helped. Is this related to a sticking "rack" or could it somehow be out of adjustment?

Has anyone every seen a problem where the throttle lever does very little until 1/2 throttle? after that is where it revs right up. So it seems the first 1/2 of lever travel does next to nothing. It idles pretty low too. All physical/external adjustments are correct, throttle lever definitely opens all the way, etc.

I did not adjust ALDA yet (is where it was and ran strong like this) also did not check waste gate yet since it does build some boost, I am focusing on the odd problem of throttle lever doing nothing until 1/2 way, seem like car is running at like 1/2 throttle as a result.

I have no desire to hot rod this car, just want decent performance for daily driving with minimal smoke. Whatever the problem is, I sure hope i don't have to remove IP. I have been reading up on pump adjustments, but don't see how mine has come out of adjustment just from sitting. If the rack is moved by a spring, maybe it is sticking. I don't know, I'll need to do more research on these pumps, trying to find a nice diagram or exploded view.

Oh, also I am flushing cooling system for third time, finally rusty water becoming clear.

Wife took my camera so no pics till tomorrow.

Thanks,

Mark

Markp · #3 07-10-2012, 07:41 PM

I fixed the sticky rack today, car runs strong now. I took the pump top off again and finally got it free'd it up and added oil. I guess it just needed to be driven a bit.

I took the car on its first real test drive 45 miles to work today and it feels good on the high way. I did have a problem however: The car was running warm on the highway, max temp just over 100C with cap loose. As i mentioned I have flushed the cooling system several times but it is still a bit rusty. I think my rad may be restricted. Also, I took out the t stat for flushing and now realize this may cause it to run warm due to some coolant flow possibly bypassing rad. Tomorrow I will reinstall T stat and flush it again, worst case i give it a new Radiator.

So when it got warm on the highway i was running straight water and some flush/anti corrosion additive. This caused it to start to boil just over 100C at top of hill with cap loose. I lost a little bit of coolant so i stopped at a store and filled up some jugs to bring with me. When i shifted into reverse the reverse rod came off! I don't know how/why it happenened, must not have had the clip on right. I had to squeeze under the hot car and remove the rod and shift it out of reverse. Fortunately i was able to find a parking spot at work I can pull out from forward, I almost forgot when i pulled in.

So minus a couple last minute cluster f's, car is running well. The 2:88 Rear end is nice with this set up since I primarilly need the car for highway travel. Its fine around town too. I see the minor buzz when lugging 3rd/4th, but it is very minor and i do not mind it. The DS work never did get balanced and it is fine. I really happy i don't have any major engine balance issue's, would not have time to tear it all apart again.

Sits pretty nice with 1 coil cut on F springs, definitely higher then it was with the auto and all the AC stuff.

I hope to drive this car another 100+K, hopefully the SLS holds up, I like the SLS system in these cars and do not want to deal with changing it out for regular springs. I replaced the accumulators and flush the system occasionally, so far it has been working very well. The lines over the rear subframe do not look great though and the pressure hose from pump should be replaced (it is spliced together now with hyd fittings).

Thanks for the help/advice. This forum is a valuable resource, incredible knowledge here.

So The to do list is getting shorter:

Steering box

Water/meth inj

Driver seat

Install R sls links

Breather/catch can set up

Fan clutch

Rad (?)

Some pics at first start (alot of unfinished business in pics, has since been tidied up)

How do I change the name of this thread?

Markp · #4 07-03-2012, 05:38 PM

The engine/trans swap almost done. I have not had much time to work on it, but I should be driving it this weekend.

I had a b1tch of a time bleeding the clutch, turned out that the master I installed with my pedal asm had some gunk in it, plugging it. I had another one so i took it apart and cleaned it up, seems in good shape so i will run it for now. Its all bled and functioning best I can tell. I do regret not replacing both slave and master but will leave it alone for now. PITA to change those!

The DS is 20 3/4" long and fits perfect. I used a shaft with a balancer/damper thing on the front. I did not get it balanced, the shop that did it is very good but does not balance. I wanted to test fit it before balancing and decided i might as well try it as is.

Shift rods are shortened and installed. I ended up shortening/sleeving them and did not mess with cutting threads. Came out nice, shifts good, new bushings etc.

Work done:

Fr main seal

check vacuum pump, seemed like new, bearing good so just reinstalled it with new gasket

turbo drain seals

oil filter housing gaskets

new oil cooler lines

valve adj

check T chain stretch (none)

rebuilt lift pump

all new hoses, t stat, reseal t stat housing

new belts

New clutch - decided not to install the used one since this car will be pretty hard on clutch w/2:88 R (?)

Carrier bearing/rubber

New engine mounts, shocks were fine

240D auto Xmember, 300TD mount

New exhaust front to back

Chilled the pilot bearing for a week and tapped it into 85 crank (went right in Junyarddog!)

Cleaned/popped injectors w/bosio's form other engine

New GP's

new water pump

cleaned engine. trans, under hood, still needs more but looking good enough for the work horse that it is.

return lines new

I still need to do the following:

Rr sls links

install exhaust

redo some fuel system related stuff

wire reverse lights to switch and wire starter safety to clutch pedal (since my kids tend to play with keys in the ign).

Steering box!!!

car has rebuilt front end, SD vented brakes, 2:88R. Should be nice if I do not get vibrations from engine/driveline! Should run it this weekend, no time to look at it until Sat AM. I'll post some pics soon.

junqueyardjim · #5 07-03-2012, 08:05 PM

Hey Markp, this is junkyarddog and hey it sounds good. Man you are moving along. Great job! Let that pilot bearing shrink up for a week, I bet you didn't hardly have to tap it in. We are happy that your job is moving along so well.

Markp · #6 07-03-2012, 08:33 PM

Thanks man,

yep it popped right in, 3 medium hits. I had it in freezer for a week.

I underestimated how long it would take to get the 'new' engine cleaned up and resealed, adjusted, etc.

All is going fine, but I know I will eat up another weekend on this thing.

I spent like 6hrs fighting the clutch bleed, I installed that other master and it seems fine. Pain in ze butt RnR'n those.

Hard to find the time to work on my junk: kids, kitchen reno, 12hr work days this week, and to top it all off Wife hit a dear in her car (and we just took collision off it 6 wks ago)
Time for a family vaca soon, losing my marbles.

I am expecting the worst in terms of vibrations, but hoping for the best.

Markp · #7 03-27-2013, 03:53 PM

4spd swap/engine swap has been great, been driving this car 500 miles/wk since swap.
I have decided to sell the car, been driving it 8yrs, car is getting ratty and has some needs. The time has come to buy a newer DD so i just picked up an 03 Tdi wagon which i need to have shipped from Iowa.

I'll place an ad for the 300TD in classifieds,

I bet this will not be my last W123, but for now farewell!