In no way was I trying to tell a pro MB mechanic how to do wheel bearings. I was more giving a procedure for the first or second time home mechanic. Every one of you can disagree with me all you want but the first time a a person does this job, I hope they will try the procedure given by some of us old people that have seen just about all of the problems for a job. I have seen cars that the wheel bearings were just installed and had either very loose bearings or burned up bearings. In our shop (now retired), we had bearing drivers, dial indicators, and just about every other auto tool know to man and we still used my procedure and didn't have a single problem in 28 years (except bearings made in china). Use my procedure and your chances of having a problem will be cut way down.
But who am I to try to give help to new comers, I don't know what I am doing. Watch out for that 500, I don't know how to put calipers on either.

Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

pmckechnie, please do not get so defensive. Both methods are valid IMO and both can be screwed up if not done right. I agree that no human can feel 0.0004" end play so I would give the dial indicator method the preference IF done right.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap and push the pads back.

If you have a procedure that works, good and thanks for passing it on.

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83 SD

84 CD

Why do you have to loosen the cap? The cap is already vented.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

funola,
I do get defensive when people tell me I don't know what I am doing. You are right about the dial indicator method being the best way of doing it. But using a dial indicator takes a lot of time to learn the proper way of using it. Let me explain again why my procedure works, and works well. First, the tightening of the nut and hitting the hub with a hammer is to make sure the races are seated because everyone doesn't have bearing drivers and instead do as I have done many times and use a hammer and the old race as a driver. You think you have them seated but they may be .001 in or less from completely seated. My method takes care of that. The above procedure is only necessary if the bearings are being replaced. Loosening the nut and then tighten back up until just a little play can be felt. What you are feeling is play in the bearing and the play between the inner race and the axle at both bearings. Agreed it takes experience to feel that but your chances of an error are much less then using a dial indicator that you don't know how to use or don't know how to read. I have used dial indicators on many cars I worked on if the front wheels or brakes were involved. Ever tried to check run-out of a brake rotor if you have a loose wheel bearing. A lot of rotors are replaced because of loose wheel bearings. I have many times adjusted the bearings my way, checked the rotors and sometimes checked for end play and considered it so small that it was fine. How much was it? I don't know. Maybe .0005 or less. Is that not good enough? Next time you adjust your bearings using the dial indicator, just before you put the tire back on the ground, check for free play and and you will see that you have just enough free play to feel. Not in and out but side to side twisting of the wheel.

I hope someone will understand what I am trying to say and realize there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. (Yes, I am from the South)

If you have a dial indicator than please use it. If you don't .............

By the way, the comments I made about the 250 ft lbs on hub assemblies was for those that may also have a Ford PU. I didn't want them to adjust their bearings using the dial indicator procedure if they had to replace the rotors (rotors, hub and bearings are one assembly). I don't think it would work. I'm sorry I put that in a MB site, I was just trying to help.

Paul

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

What people need to understand is that one method produces consistent and verifiable results and the other method is a stab in the dark in which the probablilty of falling within specifications is extremely low.

Excellent point. There are way too many people trying to adjust bearings by feel and not getting it right.


My point, precisely.

Okay, don't bother loosening the cap.

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83 SD

84 CD

qwerty
Are you a politician. You sure can take what is said, leave parts of it out so you can look smarter than you actually are. That's the way politicians do it.

Paul

PS I am going right now to block you.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Brian, Brian . . . it's not a complicated procedure, the dial indicator is a pita, have done it both ways. The old school by feel has never left me stranded or ruined a bearing. I stand by my pro who has far more experience than you and I -

I am.

And I thought you were as well. Considering that you:

a. Attempt to confuse the issue with irrelevant facts.
b. Make claims that you cannot quantify or substantiate.
c. Pretend to be open-minded.
d. Engage in personal attacks when you run out of ammunition on the real issues.

Instead of blindly standing "by" your pro (whatever that means), why don't you put him to the test and see how close to the manufacturer's specifications he can actually come? That way, we can have something quantifiable to discuss instead of a bunch of anecdotes along the lines of "I have done it this way since John Paul Jones was a seaman and nothing catastrophic has happened, so I must be doing things perfectly."

A tolerance of 0.0004-0.0008" is incredibly small. I will submit that there is no way to achieve that level of precision by feel. Prove me wrong.

This happened last time the subject came up . . . . guys, we are talking wheel bearings packed in grease, just not that critical. I did it both ways and am convinced that I will stick with the non dial indicator approach. I do take the car for a good drive and shoot the hub with a thermal gun to double check my work should a bearing be too tight, it shows up quick