Also, need to do this quick and cheap. The rotors have minor burnished grooves. I was gonna hit them up with my sander for a few minutes before changin brakes. Is this completely stupid or just old school riggin?

I wouldn't worry about it. It wont take long for the pads to conform to the grooves.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Are you being serious? I am not used to people givintg such a straightforward answer? Also what about the bendix pads?

just hit the rotors with a roloc really quick to remove any glaze and pop the pads in.

Yes. It's probably better to replace the rotors but it's not absolutely necessary. The brakes will still work. No opinion on the bendix pads.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Bendix is one of the best brands when it comes to class 8 OTR trucks. I'm not sure about their pads, but as long as they are rated EE (what came on the car originally,) you will be fine. Just don't cheap out and get low rating pads. They will fall apart. You SHOULD get the rotors turned, it shouldn't cost much at all to get them hit with an on car lathe, which is most ideal as the rotors are cut to how it is mounted to the car, plus it is cheaper than having them pulled and turned on a brake lathe.

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Mine-2008 6.7 Cummins; 1980 240D
Hers-1979 300D- Soon to be turbo'd

If you go with just pads, your brakes are going to squeel, and eat the pads abnormally.

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Mine-2008 6.7 Cummins; 1980 240D
Hers-1979 300D- Soon to be turbo'd

which rotors? the rear rotors are easily and quickly replaced. and not a lot of $$$ for new ones either.

front ones are a different story.

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

Darn near ANY pads will work just fine. Bendix is no johnny-come-lately, and 123's aren't exactly Ferrari's.

Ideally rotors should be turned or replaced, but I have done plenty of brake jobs by simply replacing the pads. They will conform quickly.

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Chief

1991 350SD

like the front rotors are that hard to replace either. They're all cheap. I never recommend turning rotors, especially for these thin, non-vented rotors. The thinner they are, the faster they overheat and warp and the faster they eat your pads. For these w123's, I'd always replace.

I bought the rotors from Auto Parts Warehouse | Car Parts & Accessories, Truck Parts, Discount Auto Body Parts Online

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Mine-2008 6.7 Cummins; 1980 240D
Hers-1979 300D- Soon to be turbo'd

I've done my fair share of "pad slaps" just slapping on new pad without touching the rotor. But you should always inspect the rotor. use a micromter to see just how much rotor is left, and check to make sure its wearing evenly.

My friend came over one day to have me do the brakes on his w123... this is what I found. I wonder what clued him in that he needed a brake job

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With a rotor like that you wont have to worry about the pads wearing unevenly.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

That was one reason why i upgraded to a w126 rotor and caliper.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

Im a big fan of the Bendix CT-3 line, and their CQ is quite good too. Id run with confidence.

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)