Also, need to do this quick and cheap. The rotors have minor burnished grooves. I was gonna hit them up with my sander for a few minutes before changin brakes. Is this completely stupid or just old school riggin?

I wouldn't worry about it. It wont take long for the pads to conform to the grooves.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Are you being serious? I am not used to people givintg such a straightforward answer? Also what about the bendix pads?

Yes. It's probably better to replace the rotors but it's not absolutely necessary. The brakes will still work. No opinion on the bendix pads.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

just hit the rotors with a roloc really quick to remove any glaze and pop the pads in.

Bendix is one of the best brands when it comes to class 8 OTR trucks. I'm not sure about their pads, but as long as they are rated EE (what came on the car originally,) you will be fine. Just don't cheap out and get low rating pads. They will fall apart. You SHOULD get the rotors turned, it shouldn't cost much at all to get them hit with an on car lathe, which is most ideal as the rotors are cut to how it is mounted to the car, plus it is cheaper than having them pulled and turned on a brake lathe.

__________________
Mine-2008 6.7 Cummins; 1980 240D
Hers-1979 300D- Soon to be turbo'd

If you go with just pads, your brakes are going to squeel, and eat the pads abnormally.

__________________
Mine-2008 6.7 Cummins; 1980 240D
Hers-1979 300D- Soon to be turbo'd

nonsense. new pads are fine on old rotors. so long as the thickness of the rotor is within spec, and the rotor is not cracked or excessively rusty. "turning" rotors is pointless, since the labor cost of doing that is about the same as the parts cost of buying new rotors.

loctite keeps the moisture out. no moisture = no corrosion = bolt comes out nice and easy. if you omit the loctite, water corrodes the threads and the bolt seizes in its hole, and can break when you try to remove it. no fun.

wrong. on a part subjected to repeated heat cycling and vibration, anti-seize will allow the bolt to work itself loose over time. a very bad thing indeed on your brakes.

loctite on the other hand, will prevent it from loosening over time, and it will also seal the threads protecting them from water and corrosion.

On the broken caliper bolt, I recommend drilling it very carefully with a size that is small enough to miss the threads, then tapping the hole. If this fails you can always use the heli-coil as a fall back position.

The one thing about brake pads is always use the same pads front and back. If you don't, one end will lock up first and compromise your stability under heavy braking.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

good point on the brake pad compounds. different compounds can have vastly different torque coefficients. the factory front-rear bias ratio is preserved only when using same brand/type of pads front and rear.

that said, you can use "equivalent" brands and types front and rear, if you are certain that they truly are equivalents. standard bendix pads on one end, and cheapo mintex pads on the other end are fine, as an example.

BLUE LOCTITE ONLY!!! on brake parts!!!

RED AND GREEN WILL RESULT IN BROKEN PARTS TOO!!!!!


NEVER USE ANTISIEZE ON BRAKE ROTOR OR CALIPER BOLTS!!!!!

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

qwerty
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 323


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt
NO LOCKTITE = SNAPPED CALIPER MOUNT BOLT.

How does the absence of thread locker result in a broken bolt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt
Instructions I read said to remove caliper.


Something is wrong with that picture.
qwerty
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 323


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt
NO LOCKTITE = SNAPPED CALIPER MOUNT BOLT.

How does the absence of thread locker result in a broken bolt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisArnt
Instructions I read said to remove caliper.


Something is wrong with that picture.

This... I always use the blue stuff and have never had any issues on the next brake job.

which rotors? the rear rotors are easily and quickly replaced. and not a lot of $$$ for new ones either.

front ones are a different story.

__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles

Darn near ANY pads will work just fine. Bendix is no johnny-come-lately, and 123's aren't exactly Ferrari's.

Ideally rotors should be turned or replaced, but I have done plenty of brake jobs by simply replacing the pads. They will conform quickly.

__________________
Chief

1991 350SD