617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Installation Instructions
 

It all started with this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/320985-installing-sanden-compressor-617-looking-all-options.html

For Sale: 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit. $150 + $15 Priority Mail Shipping/Handling.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1259.jpg

The kit includes the following:
Compressor Mounting Plate
Eccentric Arm & Idler Pulley
Belt
Oil Cooler Line Mount Relocation Bracket
All Fasteners necessary for installation

I made 11 of these kits on the first run, and got commitments to buy 10 of them. My plan is to make another batch, so I subsequently got another two members committing to purchase one from the second batch. However, the second batch design (generation) will be a little different. The second generation will NOT have the compressor fixed and employ an idler. Upon seeing actual photos of the 617 Sanden kit sold by Klima Design Works, I decided to re-design the next generation kit to employ the best features of both kits (my 1st gen, and Klima's). Therefore, the second generation will have basically the same mounting plate, but the compressor will swing on the upper bolts, and have an adjustable arm to tighten the belt. This design will require the utilization of laser cutting for all the parts (more complicated than gen 1). This may make the gen 2 kit cost a little more than gen 1, but it will be superior to Klima's kit (in my opinion), and still cost less than Klima's basic mounting kit.

Please P M me if you would like to be on the list for a gen 2 kit.

Gen 1 Sanden Bracket Installation Instructions
 

Although it may seem like a fairly straight forward installation, there are a few little pieces of information you will need.

Step 1: Remove all parts associated with the existing R4 compressor, consisting of: compressor, aluminum mounting bracket, hose manifold and hose assembly, oil cooler line mounting bracket (save the clamp, as it will be re-used), belt.
Step 2: Install the oil cooler line mount relocation bracket. Use a flat washer AND a lock washer on each 8mm bolt:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1254.jpg
You will re-use the factory dual tube clamp with the 6mm bolt and nut provided.

Step 3: Install the compressor mounting plate. Do not tighten any bolts until they are all in place (the long 1/2" bolt, and the 3 plate to block bolts).
Use split lock washers on the 3- 8mm bolts (plate to block). Now you can tighten the 3- 8mm bolts.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1256.jpg
Step 4: Install the eccentric and idler pulley. The pulley bolt MAY require a washer (provided) between the bearing and eccentric to obtain the best belt alignment without the bolt rubbing on the power steering belt. Be sure to put the pulley on the eccentric with the offset AWAY from the engine:
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1255.jpg
On the first unit I made, the bolt rubbed on the power steering belt, so I made the idler a little closer to the engine. I also offset the bearing in the pulley.

Step 5: Install the compressor that you provide (I am sure yours in nicer looking than the core I used for the photos!). Any Sanden style compressor will work as long as it has the same mounting pattern as the SD 508 (4.100" center to center). Use 4- 3/8 bolts, nuts, and washers. The bolts can go through either way, but the washer should go next to the nut. I found it easier to install the washer and nut to the rear, but put the bolts whatever direction works best for you.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1258.jpg

Step 6: Install the belt and tighten the eccentric bolt (3/4 socket), also using another wrench to cam the eccentric to obtain the proper belt tension:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...7/100_1257.jpg

Step 7+: The rest of the installation (provided by others) involves the installation of new hoses, drier, flushing of the system, and vac and charge. It is possible to use the stock (exiting vertical) port configuration that comes with most compressors by using 90 degree fittings. However, rear exiting ports make it a lot easier to route the hoses, as it is less cramped in the area (oil cooler lines in the same area).

If you have any questions, please post them here for all to see. You may find something that I have missed......Rich

I was thinking last lite to remember and ask you why the idler instead of just a slot to swing the compressor for adjustment, im glad you are doing it this way, any cost savings?

1. Why do I want a Sanden compressor so badly?
2. Which Sanden compressor?

Better cooling, uses less power, built for 134a refrigerant, available everywhere, the standard for aftermarket systems as well as heavy industrial use, a range of back plates to support different applications/hose arrangements, ease of mounting, choice of pulley configurations, easily serviced, as well as a bunch I'm probably forgetting - oh, and the other reason is - it is not an R-4
Most will work, but the "standard" would be the 508.

By what method is the idler pulley tightened?

Thanks!

I could not have said it better, Thanks!

Step 6 on the second post.

I had an idler hanging around when I built the first one, so I went that route as it was easier. I had no idea that there was a shop nearby that did laser cutting until after I had all the pieces flame cut. Laser cutting is much more expensive. For the gen 2 kit, the idler will be deleted, so I am thinking it may be about the same cost to produce. I will be getting a quote on Monday for two of the pieces. If the kit does end up costing more, it won't be much. I am also looking into getting all the parts cad plated. I am still not sure if there is enough room in a 123 yet for the gen 2 design, but I will be doing one soon with the gen 1 kit. I will get some careful measurements and compare them to the 126 and 116....Rich

I don't own a 617 anymore but this is a great idea at a great price. I have found the Sanden compressors to be great upgrades to the York compressors. They are cheap and plentiful (I've bought them as cheap as $50 new in the off-season) but I have a soft spot for the Seltec compressors.

If you're curious about what the inside of a Sanden looks like, I had one that jammed up so I took it apart. This is a 508 but you can see the missing piston at the 6:00 position. It's pretty interesting - there's actually 10 pistons total - 5 on each side of the swash plate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOlLQMEI33w

I found this in the other thread.

Sanden USA: Frequently Asked Questions

Looks like the 508 is discontinued. Is there a consensus around here on the optimal compressor / head model number? As long as we're re-inventing this wheel, may as well get the best fittings, make it as easy / good / cheap as possible.

What would be the difference between a Sanden pumping 134a and R-12? some seals, "O" rings?

Might not be able to get the Sanden R-12 unit new from Sanden, but there will still be a bunch on shelves across the country for a while as most everything is using 134a. might be good to have a few on hand for spares.

I see 134a and R-12 in 30# jugs on CL "sealed" and for a good price. R-12 is still available, just not as available as 134a.

Charlie

I'm going to guess pulley diameter or compressor displacement as well.

X 2 on tightening the belt with wear?

thanks,

chris