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  #1  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:46 PM
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Check out my lines.

Can someone tell me if all this mess is going to the right places? Check out my lines.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345689955.532934.jpg
Check out my lines.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345689968.214081.jpg
Check out my lines.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345689983.293953.jpg
Check out my lines.-imageuploadedbytapatalk1345690007.325161.jpg

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1981 300TD Wagon, my new favorite car I have ever owned, 48 hours after being rescued from under a tree since 09, she's alive!
2001 Suburban...wifes, hauls the 3 kids and drinks gas like its a .99 milkshake at Cook-out
2001 Chevy Mini-van.....mine, which is why I am trying to get the 300TD Wagon on the road...had old Jeeps my whole life, now a mini van and a struggling "man-card"
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:41 AM
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What kind of shift quality do you have?
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2012, 09:02 AM
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Check the attachment.
Attached Thumbnails
Check out my lines.-screen-shot-2012-08-23-9.01.24-am.jpg  
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  #4  
Old 08-23-2012, 11:00 AM
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Shift quality is ok/strongish, but ignition won't cut car off anymore, and wanted to make sure that and my windows not working we're being effected by something that's not right?

Is there a better way to seal them? Some are not tight? Would that little bit make a difference?
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1981 300TD Wagon, my new favorite car I have ever owned, 48 hours after being rescued from under a tree since 09, she's alive!
2001 Suburban...wifes, hauls the 3 kids and drinks gas like its a .99 milkshake at Cook-out
2001 Chevy Mini-van.....mine, which is why I am trying to get the 300TD Wagon on the road...had old Jeeps my whole life, now a mini van and a struggling "man-card"
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:04 AM
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The windows are electric, no vacuum involved. Check the fuses, they are diagonally fused.

The usual vac leak culprit is a leak in the door lock system.

Plug off the orifice going to the yellow check valve, does the engine shut off with the key?
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:54 PM
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Replace any rubber splitters or lines that are old and dry. Get rid of that silly EGR crap on top of the valve cover; chances are it is leaking anyway. Just find where its main vacuum line connects to the rest of the vac lines and bypass it with a piece of new vac hose.

Get a few golf T's and you can use them to plug the rubber lines so you can troubleshoot where the vac leak is coming from. Replacing the rubber and bypassing the EGR is a good place to start, though. If you have a mighty vac, you can test individual lines and shut off valve on the IP.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:53 PM
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So first, I can disconnect all lines on the top of the valve cover and plug them with no adverse effects? When I plugged everything in like in the pictures, seemed to shift better, but the car won't cut off.
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1981 300TD Wagon, my new favorite car I have ever owned, 48 hours after being rescued from under a tree since 09, she's alive!
2001 Suburban...wifes, hauls the 3 kids and drinks gas like its a .99 milkshake at Cook-out
2001 Chevy Mini-van.....mine, which is why I am trying to get the 300TD Wagon on the road...had old Jeeps my whole life, now a mini van and a struggling "man-card"
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  #8  
Old 08-23-2012, 04:16 PM
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MB egr fun - YouTube
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  #9  
Old 08-27-2012, 06:53 PM
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Springer, did you get some fur on it yet?

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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