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#1
06-26-2012, 09:27 PM
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Om616 vacuum pump rebuild
I'm rebuilding my vacuum pump, and I've gotten to the point of separating the two metal housing pieces that sandwich the rubber diaphragm. They're not coming apart too easily, and I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the tube of loctite included with the rebuild kit. Is there any efficient way to separate these parts? Is it ok to just heat it up with a torch and pull?
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1980 240D, 197580 miles - "The Stuttgart Stomper" 
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#2
06-27-2012, 03:40 AM
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Are you talking about the top cover that hides the valves and the piston?
If so in chapter 43-628 in the FSM it says to place the whole vacuum pump in the special tool fixture that you probably haven't got and use the screw to push the piston up to TDC before you remove the top cover. Have you got a copy of the FSM? I wouldn't be treating vacuum pumps to the scorched earth treatment if I were you...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#3
06-27-2012, 10:24 AM
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It sometimes is hard to separate those two parts with the old diaphragm sandwiched between, keep pulling. The thread lock is for the diaphragm bolt and has nothing too do with the two parts not coming apart.
__________________
 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#4
06-27-2012, 11:48 AM
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good to know... i'll keep at it, thanks!
__________________
1980 240D, 197580 miles - "The Stuttgart Stomper"
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#5
06-27-2012, 12:06 PM
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Is the body of the pump still on the block? If not, it might be easier to separate if the body is attached to the block and you can force something between the 2 parts.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#6
06-27-2012, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#7
06-27-2012, 12:23 PM
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When I rebuilt the pump on my 77 300d, I left the body on the block and just replaced the diaphragm after removing the front portion.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#8
06-27-2012, 12:45 PM
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Thats a good way but you cant check out the bearings and arm.
I pulled the VP on my 79 240D (80 engine) to inspect it since I instilled the used pump 10 years ago when I rebuilt the engine. All this talk of catastrophic failure made me nervous.
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#9
06-27-2012, 12:56 PM
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True enough. In my case the pump only had 50k on it and I knew the diaphragm was holed. You could still remove the front portion of the pump before pulling the whole body off the block if you planned to remove the whole pump.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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#10
06-27-2012, 02:52 PM
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Yah, you could. I dont know why they use slotted screws on that front cover, allens would have made the job a snap if the pumps still on the car.
50K doesn't seem too bad, I think the proper torque on that diaphragm bolt is really critical.
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#11
08-30-2012, 02:39 PM
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I'm still stuck on separating the housing... Do you just pull it off or is it threaded?
__________________
1980 240D, 197580 miles - "The Stuttgart Stomper"
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#12
08-30-2012, 02:52 PM
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Pull it apart. Put it back on the block and then it will be easier to work on.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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