HELP / Info - WHunter or Phil

[greazzer]

Howdy,

Installing my manual steering box this evening or at least that is my plan although my job may dictate otherwise. LOL

I looked at the FSM and it looks like I need a special tool to install the manual steering box. Is that really needed? I have installed PS units and it's pretty straight forward, but never a Manual in a MB.

Any tricks or issues to be on the alert for while converting from Power to Manual ?????

Thanks in Advance

[Biodiesel300TD]

Just wondering why you're switching to a manual steering, when you've got power already?

[Stretch]

Doesn't look too difficult to me => chap 46-310

The only thing you need is to do the centering pin bit - diesel911 made one himself (I think)

[JB3]

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

Just wondering why you're switching to a manual steering, when you've got power already?

I think added power by removing loads and simplification to the overall car are some of his plans.

[scottmcphee]

Originally Posted by dropnosky

I think added power by removing loads and simplification to the overall car are some of his plans.

Oh, I thought the reason was to make steering more difficult.

[martureo]

Originally Posted by greazzer

Howdy,

Installing my manual steering box this evening or at least that is my plan although my job may dictate otherwise. LOL

I looked at the FSM and it looks like I need a special tool to install the manual steering box. Is that really needed? I have installed PS units and it's pretty straight forward, but never a Manual in a MB.

Any tricks or issues to be on the alert for while converting from Power to Manual ?????

Thanks in Advance

I can't see any reason to have a special tool. I make sure the steering wheel is locked in position before I install the box.

The centering pin is a 8 or 9mm machine screw. You can go pick one up at Home Depot (where I get mine).

I'll check when I get home late tonight, but I don't see the centering screw being much different than the p/s box.

[greazzer]

Ben,

Check out the pictures I posted in my thread of the mechanical box. Can you rebuild this ? I just want to make sure its done right. PM me please. Also, any finds at the yard for the throttle linkage. So, to do this "right" is to just make sure the steering wheel is lined up facing straight ahead ? If so, seems too simple. What does the centering screw do anyway ? The FSM has a lot of pages devoted to this. I just want to do it correctly. I hate crappy repairs. I would rather spend 2 hours doing it correctly and having quality then 1 hour to zip thru it. Thanks.

[martureo]

Originally Posted by greazzer

Ben,

Check out the pictures I posted in my thread of the mechanical box. Can you rebuild this ? I just want to make sure its done right. PM me please.

Yep, as discussed before I'm 70% sure I can do it. I'm still sure I'd have to make another tool to do so, but no biggie. Also the face gasket would have to be custom, as would some of the o-rings. I haven't seen anything so far in the FSM or the pictures that would make it impossible.

Also, any finds at the yard for the throttle linkage.

I haven't been able to get out to the yard yet. I'll be out of town until Sunday as well. So either Sunday or I'll ask around if someone is headed to a JY.

So, to do this "right" is to just make sure the steering wheel is lined up facing straight ahead ? If so, seems too simple.

You're trying to make sure that the wheel doesn't move, the splined portion of the shaft is what you're installing the bushing onto and securing the wheel is the easiest way to keep that still.

What does the centering screw do anyway ?

The centering screw on the p/s box (I can't read the FSM on the manual right now) keeps the box centered so it doesn't move during installation. It's literally a threaded portion of the housing above a semicircular extrusion/hole on the working piston. It just keeps the box mechanism from moving either direction off center.

The FSM has a lot of pages devoted to this. I just want to do it correctly. I hate crappy repairs. I would rather spend 2 hours doing it correctly and having quality then 1 hour to zip thru it. Thanks.

Well, if you do it wrong you can always remove it and move it over one spline. I also know others have told me that they removed the steering wheel after installing the box and recentered it that way.

As long as you keep the box mechanism centered there shouldn't be much of a concern. I know it's possible to mess up the turn signaling centering trip switch if the wheel is too far off center, but I wouldn't be too concerned about one or two spline off center.

[greazzer]

Hey,

One more. Someone said I need to turn the box all the way to the left and then to the right to figure out the "center" of the inside gears. Is that accurate. I thought the box would just spin and spin ?????

[martureo]

Originally Posted by greazzer

Hey,

One more. Someone said I need to turn the box all the way to the left and then to the right to figure out the "center" of the inside gears. Is that accurate. I thought the box would just spin and spin ?????

I can only tell you on the p/s box right now.

But on the p/s box, you can determine the center two different ways.

First (and this is the way I prefer), remove the centering pin plug (it's a screw on the side of the box, also called the "drain" by some). Then turn the input shaft until a hole is visible on the surface of the working piston (when looking down the centering pin hole). This hole in the working piston should be centered in the threaded hole of the housing (they should be the same size). The centering pin (a modified 8 or 9mm machine screw, can't remember).

The second method is a little less accurate. Take a piece of scotch tape (or other tape you can write on) and wrap it around the output shaft close to the housing. Then take another piece and wrap it around the housing, such that it is coaxial to the output shaft. Then mark the first piece on the output shaft with an arrow pointing toward the housing. Rotate the box from opposite lock to opposite lock, marking the apex of each on the piece of tape on the housing and across from the arrow marked on the output shaft. The center between these two marks is the center of the box.

This approach can be seen in Army's wonderful write up. This picture shows the adjustment of the friction of the box. If determining the center position DO NOT attempt to turn the box as shown using the adjustment screw.

[t walgamuth]

I had a fellow change the box in my 83 240D about 20 years ago. I can confirm we did not have any special tools.