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#1
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Please help! My transmission is hooped.
My daily driver is a 1979 300td with a 722.118 transmission (no vacuum modulator). When the engine is cold the tranny works normally. After about 10km of driving it won't shift out of 2nd and the ride becomes really rough. The fluid levels are fine, fluid clear, no burnt smell at all. I searched all day and all I could find was a missing bushing where the lever coming out of the transmission on the passenger side connects to a rod leading into the engine compartment. That end is very hard to see under the exhaust manifold. Could this missing bushing be the culprit? There was no lead up to the transmission failure. The only unusual thing lately has been a rattle that could have been coming from the area where that bushing is missing. Is it possible that missing little piece of plastic is messing with my upshift? Will driving short distances slowly until I figure this out damage the transmission? Help please ! I need to be able to get my kid to the schoolbus! Thanks for any advice.
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#2
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The spot i'm talking about is almost the same as the one pictured in this thread:
Early W123 240D transmission issues though my rod goes straight into the engine compartment, no bend. |
#3
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does your model have a kickdown switch under the accelerator? if so it might be stuck
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#4
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Thanks for replying. I unhooked the switch earlier today and it didn't change anything.
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#5
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The bushing should be replaced. The working of the rod is of crucial important to the working of the transmission.
And if you haven't changed the fluid and filter in 30,000 miles, than that should be done, even if the fluid is clear and doesn't smell burnt. |
#6
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Not reasonably.
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#7
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I feel pretty confident that it's that missing bushing that is causing the problem, where the control rod from the throttle linkage connects to the transmission control level (right side of transmission). I saw several references in forums to Transmission Control Rod bushing part #1102770550. Kaia at Mercedes source calls it an auto transmission kick down rod bushing and can send one up. I'm getting a filter and doing a fluid change for good measure. I know it's been more than 88K km's.... I've never been so disabled by a 10cent piece of plastic before. Thanks for your help!
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#8
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Quote:
(You realise you might have to adjust the linkage with a new bushing in there don't you?)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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Yes Army, in a moment of weakness i ordered Kent's tuning transmission book, even though only one chapter refers to my non-vacuum modulator transmission. Do you know if this book will even be helpful? Will the Haynes give me lengths for proper adjustment? It will be a while before I get parts as I'm on a windswept island in the North Pacific. I'll let you know how it goes.
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#10
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The adjustment of the linkage is described in great detail in the Factory Service Manual. Available online from MB-USA:
Untitled Document (you need disc two). Or here: 30 Accelerator Control - OM617 There 30-300.1, section C |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
Bookmarks |
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