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#1
09-26-2012, 10:32 PM
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I Have A Cricket. . .In My Clutch
My clutch sounds like a cricket, and it seems to be getting worse. It's not too bad yet, but it is noticeable. As soon as I apply a small amount of pressure to the clutch pedal, the noise stops. When I release the pedal, it starts again. I'm not a clutch expert, so I'm hoping someone can help me out. Is there a fix for this, or is it time for a new clutch???
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1982 240D - 292,000 miles and counting Same family for 33 years Newly rebuilt Monark injectors Newly replaced clutch New Bilstein shocks 
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#3
09-26-2012, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
I'm assuming that leads to a total clutch replacement. . .I'm getting the feeling that this is one of those "while you've got it torn apart" jobs.
__________________
1982 240D - 292,000 miles and counting Same family for 33 years Newly rebuilt Monark injectors Newly replaced clutch New Bilstein shocks
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#4
09-26-2012, 11:10 PM
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Also, while we're on the subject, can anybody point me in the direction of a clutch replacement DIY, please?
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1982 240D - 292,000 miles and counting Same family for 33 years Newly rebuilt Monark injectors Newly replaced clutch New Bilstein shocks
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#5
09-26-2012, 11:50 PM
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I didn't see anything on this forum with a quick look.
The Haynes MB Diesel 123 Series and Chiltons MB Couples/Sedans/Wagons 1974-1984 manuals give decent guidance on the job. You might find them at the library if you don't have copies. Sixto 87 300D
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#7
09-27-2012, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
PeachPartsWiki: Clutch R&R This is the thread it came from. How to replace a clutch in a 240D - Pictorial Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#8
09-27-2012, 02:12 PM
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It's a worn throwout bearing, $30 or so. Once trashed, it will take out the pressure plate >$100. The friction disc is a while your in there, but the pressure plate, if in good shape need not be. You have some time, but not forever. Have VIN handy when ordering.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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#9
09-27-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1982 240D - 292,000 miles and counting Same family for 33 years Newly rebuilt Monark injectors Newly replaced clutch New Bilstein shocks
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#10
09-27-2012, 05:08 PM
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The pilot bearing is between the engine and transmission, it only operates when the clutch is open. ( Clutch peddle pushed. )
The release bearing ( throwout bearing ) is connected to the clutch peddle. This bearing pushes on the clutch fingers to open the clutch. In many cars, the release bearing is in light contact with the clutch fingers. After a period of time the small amount of lubrication wears off causing a squeak as the fingers rub across the bearing. ( The fingers are never perfectly centered so some scrub will occur. ) This also causes the release fork to jiggle around. If the pivot or slave cylinder push rod is dry the noise you have will occur. If there are access ports on the side of the bell housing, you might be able to lightly grease the clutch fingers / face of release bearing. A touch of oil on the fork pivot / push rod. "" Interesting. The clutch is generally good, but slips noticeably in cold weather. More than anything, it's annoying. . . "" A clutch can't be generally good and slip. A slipping clutch allows the engine speed to increase at a greater rate than road speed. Is the car in question the one in your sig? Has the clutch ever been changed? If never been changed it might be time to change the clutch. For maximum life, get the flywheel reground so you have a flat surface.
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#11
09-27-2012, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
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1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k - Daily Duty 1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k - "Recommended for competition events only"
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#12
09-27-2012, 07:26 PM
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 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#13
09-29-2012, 01:02 PM
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Just did engine R&I on my 82. The ends of the front & rear driveshaft segments are alignment marked from 82 on. You should see a "-" mark on the end of one forging, and a "=" on the end of the other. Preserve this alignment.
Slipping clutch is likely the friction disc. +1 on those tips. The clutch can be a PIA to bleed, but it's easy to avoid. Pushing from the RF caliper to the slave cyl is the way to go. You'll need an alignment tool.The cheap plastic splines are not fun. Get the metal alignment tool, even if you'll only use it once.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?
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