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  #1  
Old 10-11-2012, 11:19 AM
jay_bob's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 3,942
Do yourself a favor and order from Phil the proper ceramic and copper fuses for your car. Get enough to redo the whole box as preventative maintenance. It is the cheapest thing you can do to prevent a whole host of electrical problems. Also verify you have the proper color fuse in each pocket, per the card in the lid, sometimes prior owners over fuse the circuits.

Check the fuse holder tabs, if they are oxidized clean them but not with anything abrasive. Abrasives strip the plating and you will have a worse problem.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2012, 11:31 AM
1986 300sdl 1985 380se
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: West Monroe LA
Posts: 484
Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Do yourself a favor and order from Phil the proper ceramic and copper fuses for your car. Get enough to redo the whole box as preventative maintenance. It is the cheapest thing you can do to prevent a whole host of electrical problems. Also verify you have the proper color fuse in each pocket, per the card in the lid, sometimes prior owners over fuse the circuits.

Check the fuse holder tabs, if they are oxidized clean them but not with anything abrasive. Abrasives strip the plating and you will have a worse problem.
Thanks for the info. I actually have official, real, Mercedes Benz fuses, from a dealer. They came in the official MB box. They just do not look like the quality that Mercedes installed in 1986. My original fuses actually have the MB Star on them. As with all manufacturers, I will bet that these are outsourced from some supplier and put in a fancy little MB box. My terminals are all nice and clean. I attributed this failure to plain old metal fatigue, combined with crappy NE Louisiana roads.
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1986 300sdl
1985 380se
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2012, 12:32 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,680
I can`t imagine a part being so short lived. take it right back to the dealer and have them replace all those bad parts. they will fix you right up.

Congratulations on 26 yrs of ownership and longivity on your SDL.


I had a similar problem with my Datsun Diesel PU. was blowing some coolant from the top of the radiator, and seemed like the top of the tank was leaking along the seam. couldn`t find a radiator on line for a Diesel but plenty of gassers.

Kept the overflow tank filled and added coolant now and then, so finally decided to dig deeper, and discovered the 29yrold (at that time) radiator cap rubber seal was cracked and deteriorated. can you believe they originally install such a low quality cap?

Is the original radiator and now up to 31yrs. I have always used distilled water/coolant, and looking in the top, the tubes are clean. have replaced hoses etc, but the cap was overlooked.

Charlie
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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