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  #16  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw_two View Post
You might also want to start gathering cardboard. Some of us have been known to pickup enough cardboard to fill the trunk and the backseat. Yeah, it comes in handy. I won't say ALL diesels drip, but most of them do.
Even if your's doesn't drip, it's makes a nice floor covering when working on the engine, fuel line, transmission, you get the idea

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  #17  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:16 PM
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Congrats, Will on your 1st Diesel purchase!

Yes, the black oil is caused by soot, which is essentially particulate matter from incomplete combustion. Even the mighty diesel doesn't operate at anything near 100%, so soot is formed.

(BTW, in summer I run B100 = 100% biodiesel. I purchase ASTM-certified commercial biodiesel. It dramatically cuts down on soot formation, and does a great job of removing diesel fuel build-ups in the fuel system and injectors, etc. It does have less energy per gallon, so it does lose a little bit of the MPG, but it runs smoother and more quietly as well)

Just be sure to change out your oil on a regular basis (you must ignore oil change interval information from gassers). If you really want to be sure, then you can do oil analysis a few times to determine the optimum time to change the oil.

Some people are experimenting with bypass filtration - the main goal of the bypass filtration is to catch additional soot. That would allow the oil to stay in longer, and then we could justify using fancy-shmancy synthetic oil.

At any rate, I have vacuum oil extractor, but I admit I don't use it on diesel motor oil. It would make it too dirty!

Be sure to wear ratty clothes, put cardboard down, and I like to wear nitrile gloves. You don't want to put too much dirty diesel motor oil on your skin.

Sincerely,

Packman
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  #18  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willw View Post
OK, I'll tell you my story of woe.



Henry Kuttner, wrote some good books back in the day.

Will W
I've made that very same mistake. You should now be safe, most of us learn to not do that again pretty quickly.

Gallegher is one of my favorite sc-fi characters. Him and the Proud Robot. "Look, they go 'round!"

Synthetic oil is a good suggestion, especially for those parts that have real winter. Note that oil leaks may worsen with synthetic -- the smaller synthetic oil molecules can get through tiny holes or gaps that the longer carbon chains of natural oils can't. This is not a reason to not use synthetic oil, just something to keep in mind.

Jeremy
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  #19  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:01 PM
WillW
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 54
Well I plan on using Bio-diesel in this car :-)

I figured the first thing I should do is get the car working well before
I started the conversion project. There is very little that needs to be
done on these older Mercedes to get them to run biodiesel, at least
that's what I've read.

I've got a 2 tank processor with a pump and heater, a 55 gallon drum of
methanol, and tonight I'm picking up 60 gallons of veggie oil. I've still
got some more work to do on the car, but biodiesel is getting closer all
the time :-)

I've got a box of Nitrile gloves, but being an optimist I wasn't wearing
them when the oil dumped :-0 I was wearing my cruddy clothes tho
so the wife didn't freak out, too much.....

Will W
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:32 PM
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  #21  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willw View Post
Well I plan on using Bio-diesel in this car :-)

I figured the first thing I should do is get the car working well before
I started the conversion project. There is very little that needs to be
done on these older Mercedes to get them to run biodiesel, at least
that's what I've read.

I've got a 2 tank processor with a pump and heater, a 55 gallon drum of
methanol, and tonight I'm picking up 60 gallons of veggie oil. I've still
got some more work to do on the car, but biodiesel is getting closer all
the time :-)

I've got a box of Nitrile gloves, but being an optimist I wasn't wearing
them when the oil dumped :-0 I was wearing my cruddy clothes tho
so the wife didn't freak out, too much.....

Will W
you are thinking SVO/WVO, not Biodiesel. Biodiesel is a product that is formed from the cracking of the vegoil into a product that is totally compatible with a diesel motor.
either type of veg oil uncracked requires a conversion process, and heaters/valves... so don't mix them up. they are not the same.
no conversion is needed to run Biodiesel in a benz.
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2012, 07:40 PM
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Given that the OP says he has Methanol on hand it sounds to me that he plans to make his own Bio-diesel,if he is careful he can make excellent fuel.Since he is making his own he probably will be running high percentages if not 100% bio so there are a few things he should do to prepare the car such as replacing the rubber fuel lines with suitable fuel hose and removing and cleaning the tank would likely be a good idea too.Sounds to me like he is starting out right.
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  #23  
Old 10-23-2012, 01:31 AM
WillW
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Austin,Texas
Posts: 54
Hi All,

Yep, I'm going the full methanol/lye treatment of WVO to make my own
B100 product. I've ordered new fuel lines, and fuel filters to kick off
the conversion process when I change over.

I picked up about 80 gallons of WVO tonight, and a new friend I met
on Craigslist is going to centrifuge it to get all the water and particles
bigger than a micron out of the oil. This should have the WVO ready to
go into the processor tank. So if I keep pushing I should have 40 gallons
of B100 ready to put into the car in a couple of weeks.

Centrifuges are really the way to go to clean and de-water biodiesel,
but they are EXPENSIVE. Water softener filters can be used but they
are messy and clog up, so the on going costs are high. Until I can
justify a centrifuge I'll split the raw WVO with my friend for his services :-)

Will W

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