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  #1  
Old 10-25-2012, 12:17 PM
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Everything I own is old and unique, guess Iam old and unique too.
This forum is about old and unique, so you are in the right place.

I agree if it is the timing chain, you will have a bent valve or two, and depending on how fast you were going, what ever other damage was done. could just be the chain and a couple valve, broken cam shaft. or cracked head, VC, and broken off cam shaft towers/bearings, and......

You won`t know for sure until you start digging into it. hope it is just a clutch problem, easier fix and less costly.
at least you are close to home. when my 85 broke it`s chain, I was 500 miles from home.

Keep us up to date.

What is your location?


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2012, 04:51 PM
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Thanks for that. I am in San Mateo CA. I was making a left turn so probably under 10 miles per hour when it happened.

Not sure what I will do. I have done many vw bus/ bug transplants but don't have a cherry picker or maybe even the stomach to swap the 240D motor.

Funny, I drove around 150 mile trip on Monday and was thinking how sweet a 35 year old car can run.
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2012, 05:11 PM
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FYI

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Originally Posted by joshgold10 View Post
Thanks for that. I am in San Mateo CA. I was making a left turn so probably under 10 miles per hour when it happened.

Not sure what I will do. I have done many vw bus/ bug transplants but don't have a cherry picker or maybe even the stomach to swap the 240D motor.

Funny, I drove around 150 mile trip on Monday and was thinking how sweet a 35 year old car can run.
Feel free to call and discuss the car in depth.


.
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  #4  
Old 10-25-2012, 05:43 PM
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Thanks! Getting towed home this afternoon. Will take valve cover off (there goes the new gasket I just put on! ) and will take pics of the hopefully not too gory scene.
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2012, 05:52 PM
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Sorry to hear of your misfortune. That is a nice looking 123. Well worth fixing whatever it is.

- Peter.
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1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:14 PM
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Well here is the bad news.

Could I have done this from adjusting valves incorrectly? Seemed pretty straight forward and done it a thousand times on my vw bus/bug motors.
Appreciate all the input here!
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Pop, Stall, Smoke, Nothing-10-25-2012-4-07-34-pm.jpg   Pop, Stall, Smoke, Nothing-10-25-2012-4-10-45-pm.jpg   Pop, Stall, Smoke, Nothing-img_0708.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:58 PM
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Pull the remanants of the cam and apply a little air pressure to each cylinder. If you do not hear any leakage from the exhaust pipe or air filter area the valves are most likely still okay.

Next if the first test passes locate and estimate the amount of damage on the front of the engine. If minimal a used cam and towers should cover the top of the engine. Jumped timing with a worn piece of the chain guide rail is possible. You should be able to locate the original cause of the chain problem fairly easily.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:58 PM
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[QUOTE=joshgold10;3036094]Well here is the bad news.

Could I have done this from adjusting valves incorrectly? Seemed pretty straight forward and done it a thousand times on my vw bus/bug motors.
Appreciate all the input here![/QUOTE

Basically impossible in my opinion.

I thought about this a little more. I guess it is possible but you would have had to set the lash clearance on other than the peak of the cam lobe. Yet if this was done the engine should not have been able to run. I might be missing something here but not sure of what. I still feel that in general if the engine was runnable after the lash adjustment it was not the causitive issue.

Actually in applying air the problem is having an adapter to match either the injector hole or the glow plug hole. Usually if I do not have something on hand I will gut a glow plug or spark plug and weld an air nipple to it. Once done it becomes a permanent tool. Normally I use one of my compression tester fittings. Use only low air pressure as otherwise the force will tend to rotate the engine. It still will try but not as hard say with 20 pounds pressure. To stop the engine rotating as the air pressure tries to push the piston down. Put the transmission into reverse and block the rear wheels. The higher the air pressure the more force is exerted on any piston that is not sitting at bottom dead centre.

Set the emergency brake and block the rear tires. Remember the remanants of the cam have to be pulled first so if all the valves are capable of sealing they will be. With no hydralic lifters either a valve bends or the crank tower lets go. It seems at very low rotational speeds the forced bleed down of an engines hydralic lifters may save the situation sometimes. With solid lifters or equivelant like the 616 has. Generally something has to be damaged.

Last edited by barry12345; 10-26-2012 at 08:05 AM.
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  #9  
Old 10-25-2012, 08:18 PM
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Call me

Quote:
Originally Posted by joshgold10 View Post
Well here is the bad news.

Could I have done this from adjusting valves incorrectly? Seemed pretty straight forward and done it a thousand times on my vw bus/bug motors.
Appreciate all the input here!
We need to talk..


.
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshgold10 View Post
Thanks! Getting towed home this afternoon. Will take valve cover off (there goes the new gasket I just put on! ) and will take pics of the hopefully not too gory scene.
The about $5.55 Valve Cover Gasket can be reused several times; on to bigger worries.

It is entirely possible you will only have to fix some stuff on the Head and the T Chain related parts.

Yank off the Vacuum Pump and see if there is anything left of that.
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