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  #16  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:03 AM
Doktor Bert's Avatar
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Very nice work.

FWIW, I always use a master link. I don't think I have ever peened a 617 chain in my life and I have never lost one either...Robert

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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #17  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
While we were at it, a valve adjustment was also done. Only 3 slightly tight valves
Remember, the clearance on a 617 valve will vary as you rotate the valve. When you are adjusting, rotate the valve and find the TIGHTEST point in the valve's rotation and adjust this to the minimum specification.

I call this method 'averaging' the valves. I only adjusted them one time at the dealer, but some techs would end up with a shake and have to do them again, because they set the lash at the LOOSEST point and when the valve rotated during operation, they lost their clearance....Robert
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #18  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
Remember, the clearance on a 617 valve will vary as you rotate the valve. When you are adjusting, rotate the valve and find the TIGHTEST point in the valve's rotation and adjust this to the minimum specification.

I call this method 'averaging' the valves. I only adjusted them one time at the dealer, but some techs would end up with a shake and have to do them again, because they set the lash at the LOOSEST point and when the valve rotated during operation, they lost their clearance....Robert
Good info!

So how did you do it in terms of technique to find the tightest point? Rotate the engine once through just for measures and then adjust on a second rotation?

Youre not supposed to turn the engine backwards, so when did you determine? For such subtle differences in tightness, what feelers did you use? Was it just an acquired feeling based upon friction levels on the feeler?

Or am I comprehending this wrong?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #19  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:38 AM
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I use nitrile gloves when handling hazardous materials. I work in a lab, I should know but my mechanic insists on handling it w/ bare hands.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
Remember, the clearance on a 617 valve will vary as you rotate the valve. When you are adjusting, rotate the valve and find the TIGHTEST point in the valve's rotation and adjust this to the minimum specification.

I call this method 'averaging' the valves. I only adjusted them one time at the dealer, but some techs would end up with a shake and have to do them again, because they set the lash at the LOOSEST point and when the valve rotated during operation, they lost their clearance....Robert
We used the retainer so the valve won't rotate while being adjusted. However, for the sake of discussion...

If you rotate the valves to the tightest position, then this isn't "averaging" because you're aiming for a tighter position and adjusting to spec from this point.

Is it better to have the valves loosen over time, than to tighten? From what I understand, if your method is performed, it "loosens" as it rotates since the adjustment was done at the tight end of the valve.
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Good info!

So how did you do it in terms of technique to find the tightest point? Rotate the engine once through just for measures and then adjust on a second rotation?

Youre not supposed to turn the engine backwards, so when did you determine? For such subtle differences in tightness, what feelers did you use? Was it just an acquired feeling based upon friction levels on the feeler?

Or am I comprehending this wrong?
The factory tools for the valve adjustment consist of (2) 14mm wrenches and a spanner wrench for the valve spring retainer. This allows you to rotate the valve in a circular motion and find the tight spot....
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #21  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
I use nitrile gloves when handling hazardous materials. I work in a lab, I should know but my mechanic insists on handling it w/ bare hands.



We used the retainer so the valve won't rotate while being adjusted. However, for the sake of discussion...

If you rotate the valves to the tightest position, then this isn't "averaging" because you're aiming for a tighter position and adjusting to spec from this point.

Is it better to have the valves loosen over time, than to tighten? From what I understand, if your method is performed, it "loosens" as it rotates since the adjustment was done at the tight end of the valve.
Well, that's the term (averaging) I coined at the dealership anyways.

The idea is to never have LESS than the specified clearance. Since ALL valves will have a given amount of runout when rotated, adjusting at the tightest point will ensure you never run the valves too tight.

On a 'flat rate' valve adjustment, most techs (back then) would just set them .006" and .016" and it just makes things go quicker.
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:50 AM
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Ah, gotcha. Interesting point, thanks for sharing.

From your experience, how much difference is there within one valve's loose and tight end when rotated?
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  #23  
Old 10-31-2012, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post
Ah, gotcha. Interesting point, thanks for sharing.

From your experience, how much difference is there within one valve's loose and tight end when rotated?
On a 'good' motor, about .002" to .003"
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Did you just pass my 740 at 200 kmh in a 300SD?????

1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013



100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership
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  #24  
Old 10-31-2012, 03:14 PM
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So once again, which model of MB did the 15" Bundt rims come on originally?
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  #25  
Old 10-31-2012, 03:26 PM
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Without starting a new thread, and since we're on the subject, why does mercedes give a looser spec for adjusting hot valves? I've always thought that the purpose of valve clearance is to make up for their tightening when things get hot(?)

Having 2 specs for the same engine, with the hot spec being looser, means that they would be WAAAY off when the engine is cold, (in the loose direction). Do the clearances get tighter as the engine cools down? That's the only way that both specs could be the same.

Also, the MB FSM shows valves being adjusted on the bottom of the cam for each tappet, (as opposed to TDC as with most other engines). It certainly makes valve adjustments quicker and easier, but for precision sake, it sucks. The clearance that matters most is TDC. Who cares if there is more clearance in the middle of the cam's travel, (halfways away from the lobe)?

When rotating the valve is mentioned, I like the idea of being more precise but scratch my head at the imprecision of the factory procedure(?)
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  #26  
Old 10-31-2012, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetrimmer View Post
Without starting a new thread, and since we're on the subject, why does mercedes give a looser spec for adjusting hot valves? I've always thought that the purpose of valve clearance is to make up for their tightening when things get hot(?)

Having 2 specs for the same engine, with the hot spec being looser, means that they would be WAAAY off when the engine is cold, (in the loose direction). Do the clearances get tighter as the engine cools down? That's the only way that both specs could be the same.

Also, the MB FSM shows valves being adjusted on the bottom of the cam for each tappet, (as opposed to TDC as with most other engines). It certainly makes valve adjustments quicker and easier, but for precision sake, it sucks. The clearance that matters most is TDC. Who cares if there is more clearance in the middle of the cam's travel, (halfways away from the lobe)?

When rotating the valve is mentioned, I like the idea of being more precise but scratch my head at the imprecision of the factory procedure(?)
Interesting point about the hot lash, but on my other solid tappet motors, the measurement has to be made on the base of the cam lobe, since the profile of the cam is the same whether on a firing stroke or exhaust. Unless I'm misinterpreting this.
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetrimmer View Post
So once again, which model of MB did the 15" Bundt rims come on originally?
Believe the 15" Fuchs forged originals were used in armored or HD MB cars. Forget where I read that. Not sure if that is true. I did import mine from
Germany.

Now back OT.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #28  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:48 PM
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The cam-towers are aluminium alloy of some type, which expands More than the cast-iron and steel of the valve and head....

Therefore, as the whole assembly heats up--the running clearance does increase and thus the need for a hot/cold valve clearance difference when setting....
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBeige View Post

Spring p/n: 110-993-39-01

Thanks!


.
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  #30  
Old 11-06-2012, 11:57 PM
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Thanks!


.
You're welcome!

Speaking about this spring, does anybody know why MB decided not to use a sleeve when installing the spring into the tensioner? When the spring is compressed, it leans against the wall of the tensioner "barrel". This is what causes the spring rungs to wear out.

I suppose the same is true with a sleeve, if you think of the barrel as the sleeve. Any thoughts?

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