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  #1  
Old 12-13-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netpro View Post
i went in my cold garage today and I got it apart enuf to take some pictures of what it looks like .... ( i forgot to put that tming " tab " back on and so had to take it apart to put it on so we could check the timing not sure if it helps but it was suggested itming marks compared to camshaft .... not once did the camshaft top out while crank pully was on 15 deg mark ( on either side of T i assume that's what T on the pulley means ... ... the part that confused me tho i was expecting just one set of marks .. but it was on either side of T so i took pictures on both side ...sadly niether lines up ... just fyi the sequence of the pics is as follows ..... the crank position then what the cam position on cyl 1 was .... the only time it was @ top was in middle of nowhere as u can see...... yet it ran ... let me know what u think


the images can also be found @ this link on my work site

Index of /app/webroot/carpics
I've put some of your words in BOLD , when you say this are you talking about the pointer that is attached to the timing case cover and points too or indicates the degree markings on the harmonic balancer? The little cut off triangle metal piece? Is that the part you removed when you took the timing case cover off originally, you forgot to reinstall it when you put things back together originally, and today when you started trying to do something realized it was missing and today reinstalled it?

The harmonic balancer it marked in degrees both before and after TOP DEAD CENTER that is why there are two scales.
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  #2  
Old 12-13-2012, 10:50 PM
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Smile

Set the harmonic balancer at zero and check where the cam timing refferance marks are then. The injection pump is timed at the fifteen degree position but the cam at the zero position.

Remember the lobes of the cams first cylinder must be pointing generally upward at perhaps a forty five degree angle. If they are pointing downward the cam refferance marks will be way off .So you will have to turn the crank one full turn back to the harmonic dampers zero mark.

Just go slow and it will mentally all fall into place. This is caused by the crank having to turn twice for the cam to turn once if you think about the four stroke engine cycle.

In your case the tang in the injection port might have been easier but something will come of it the way you are doing it. Do not get overly concerned at this time. Plus try not to get frustrated. Look at the upside as well. There should be no parts to buy basically to get this corrected if it is found the timing is off. If you have a chance and the time look up the otto four stroke engine theory on the net if you do not understand it. It makes life a lot easier if you do.

We live in a five bedroom igloo on the east coast of Canada. May as well serve the steriotype. The southerners love it.

Where are you that it is presently 20 degrees below? We just got colder reciently but no where near that. I will try to periodically get back to your thread as much as possible. Tomorrow is unpredictable though as the wife has many other things for me to deal with. .Gotta tune up the dog team and go get a christmas tree for one. We agreed many years ago to always go cut our own christmas tree down. I guess that I am a sucker for punishment but an agreement is an agreement.

We agreed to do this long ago until we were eventually physically incapable of doing it..I have fortunatly since learnt to examine the fine print in intermarital relationship agreements but too late for that one.

Last edited by barry12345; 12-13-2012 at 11:18 PM.
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2012, 12:04 AM
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[QUOTE=barry12345;3065823]Set the harmonic balancer at zero and check where the cam timing refferance marks are then. The injection pump is timed at the fifteen degree position but the cam at the zero position.

people keep talking about the cam timing reference marks ... where is that ????

the reason i took the valve cover off it was no big deal ( dont know where that blasted injection pump port is i'm supposed to be looking in ..... too

you said ...............
Remember the lobes of the cams first cylinder must be pointing generally upward at perhaps a forty five degree angle.

----->>> i assumed they were supposed to be vertical like in picture # 31

are you saying they should be like picture # 11 instead .....

ps ... all crank pics ( altho it may not been easily readable ) are taken @ 15 deg mark then next pic in sequence shows where the cam was sitting in relation to it ...... hope that explains it well enuf ....

for example ..... pic # 30 is the crank position in middle of nowhere ( blank space ) # pic # 31 is position of cam
pic # 8 is crank @ 15 right of T and pic # 11 is position of cam
pic # 35 is crank @ 15 left of T and pic # 36 id cam position again hope that helps or makes some sense ....


If they are pointing downward the cam refferance marks will be way off .So you will have to turn the crank one full turn back to the harmonic dampers zero mark.

glad you mentioned that about the cams i meant to ask.. which one are we " worried " about ... the 1 st or second one lining up ....

ok i will take another picture of it @ zero and show u results .....

and where the heck is that port i'm supposed to be looking in what am i missing here ....

Last edited by netpro; 12-14-2012 at 12:28 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2012, 02:30 AM
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Damn

[QUOTE=netpro;3065843]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Rapier View Post
I've put some of your words in BOLD , when you say this are you talking about the pointer that is attached to the timing case cover and points too or indicates the degree markings on the harmonic balancer? The little cut off triangle metal piece? Is that the part you removed when you took the timing case cover off originally, you forgot to reinstall it when you put things back together originally, and today when you started trying to do something realized it was missing and today reinstalled it?


Yep ... that's the piece i'm talking about ... i forgot to re-install it when i put it back together
The problem is that because you removed that pointer from where it was originally located and now reinstalled it back into a position that you never marked there is no way of knowing exactly where it is actually indicating now! On this engine the pointer is adjusted to point directly at the TDC mark after you physically set and measure that the #1 piston is actually at the exact TDC position. You set the piston at TDC and adjust the pointer to reflect that, as it is now you've reinstalled the pointer somewhere within its range of adjustment but you have no actual idea of where the #1 piston was located when you did that.

In order to do anything to check the timing of the injection pump you would have to re-establish the correct position of that pointer to reflect actual TDC.

The problem for you is that procedure is quite technical, you need some specific tools, and you need to pull the #1 injector, prechamber and glowplug to gain access to the top of the piston to measure when it is at exact TDC.

You need to go to that online Factory Service Manual and find procedure 03-345 Checking and correcting adjustment of TDC sensor, that way you can see exactly what I'm talking about. You probably will need to print out the procedure and show it to whatever mechanic who can help you if you go that route. A good mechanic should be able to figure out from that what actually needs to be accomplished and he can probably figure out a way to do that without MB specific tools, but your going to have to access the top of the piston to verify the actual TDC. That can be done either through the prechamber bore or after removing the cylinder head!

For the blade on the IP, on the driver's side of the IP about 2/3rds of the way back just rearward of the lift pump and just below the pump's identification plate, there is a large (17 mm I think) bolt head. That bolt its actually a plug and is what you remove (there is a crush washer usually aluminum don't lose that) inside of the hole from which you removed that bolt is the blade that rotates. That blade looks like the tip of a screwdriver blade. It's designed to to be exactly centered in that hole when the the properly set indicator that points to the scale on the harmonic balancer reads 15 degrees after ATDC. There is a locking tool that secures that blade in place when needed, there is also an indicator light tool which contacts that blade in order to set the timing exactly as the IP is rotated when setting the timing.

Usually you will need a mirror and a light to see the blade clearly to determine if it is a close to centered as can be.

You should probably be turning your engine over only with your hands and tools rather than using the starter or running it until you figure out if the timing is actually off. If the timing is off too much you will cause the pistons to strike the valves damaging something.
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2012, 09:58 AM
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Photograph number two looks about right to indicate the enine is on the right stroke to check the camshaft timing and presence of the tang in the injection pump. Remember again though cam timing marks are checked at zero degrees on the harmonic balancer. The tang presence at 15 degrees. I am not getting into other aspects yet until it is decided if the timing is seriously off or not.

You may be able to be a little further off because of your hydralic lifters than an earlier engine with basically solid lifters could tollerate.
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2012, 02:41 PM
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[QUOTE=Mark Rapier;3065877]
Quote:
Originally Posted by netpro View Post

The problem is that because you removed that pointer from where it was originally located and now reinstalled it back into a position that you never marked there is no way of knowing exactly where it is actually indicating now!


i agree totally ... that was EXACTLY my concern toooo .... it had a lot of play .... which obviously is not good in this scenario ...



On this engine the pointer is adjusted to point directly at the TDC mark after you physically set and measure that the #1 piston is actually at the exact TDC position. You set the piston at TDC and adjust the pointer to reflect that, as it is now you've reinstalled the pointer somewhere within its range of adjustment but you have no actual idea of where the #1 piston was located when you did that.


i agree ......

In order to do anything to check the timing of the injection pump you would have to re-establish the correct position of that pointer to reflect actual TDC.

The problem for you is that procedure is quite technical, you need some specific tools, and you need to pull the #1 injector, prechamber and glowplug to gain access to the top of the piston to measure when it is at exact TDC.

You need to go to that online Factory Service Manual and find procedure 03-345 Checking and correcting adjustment of TDC sensor, that way you can see exactly what I'm talking about. You probably will need to print out the procedure and show it to whatever mechanic who can help you if you go that route. A good mechanic should be able to figure out from that what actually needs to be accomplished and he can probably figure out a way to do that without MB specific tools, but your going to have to access the top of the piston to verify the actual TDC. That can be done either through the prechamber bore or after removing the cylinder head!

For the blade on the IP, on the driver's side of the IP about 2/3rds of the way back just rearward of the lift pump and just below the pump's identification plate, there is a large (17 mm I think) bolt head. That bolt its actually a plug and is what you remove (there is a crush washer usually aluminum don't lose that) inside of the hole from which you removed that bolt is the blade that rotates. That blade looks like the tip of a screwdriver blade. It's designed to to be exactly centered in that hole when the the properly set indicator that points to the scale on the harmonic balancer reads 15 degrees after ATDC. There is a locking tool that secures that blade in place when needed, there is also an indicator light tool which contacts that blade in order to set the timing exactly as the IP is rotated when setting the timing.

Usually you will need a mirror and a light to see the blade clearly to determine if it is a close to centered as can be.

You should probably be turning your engine over only with your hands and tools rather than using the starter or running it until you figure out if the timing is actually off. If the timing is off too much you will cause the pistons to strike the valves damaging something.
yeah i'm justing a ratchet to turn over ..... ( see in pic actually ) it's crazy to use starter .... what if it started lol

thanks for the info
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  #7  
Old 12-13-2012, 11:41 PM
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[QUOTE=Mark Rapier;3065763]I've put some of your words in BOLD , when you say this are you talking about the pointer that is attached to the timing case cover and points too or indicates the degree markings on the harmonic balancer? The little cut off triangle metal piece? Is that the part you removed when you took the timing case cover off originally, you forgot to reinstall it when you put things back together originally, and today when you started trying to do something realized it was missing and today reinstalled it?


Yep ... that's the piece i'm talking about ... i forgot to re-install it when i put it back together
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