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Old 11-09-2012, 03:21 PM
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The 'Waxoyl' recipe I came up with is a variation of the ones you see on the web.
--I found those recipes made a wax that was too hard when 'set', was flaky and too thick to spray.

Here's mine-

1 part (by volume) hard candle-wax. I used one of those cheapo huge candles from a cheapo-shop. (I'm a 'cheapo' kind of guy!)

1.5 parts cheapo engine-oil.

2-3 parts white-spirit/turps substitute. (according to application ambient temperature.)

Melt down the candle/s in a pan that's in another of boiling-water.--don't rush it or use a single pan we don't want it mega hot!

Add the cheapo engine-oil or used oil if you don't mind 'black' waxoyl

Have the 2-3 parts of white-spirit in another vessel and add the mixture to it--Take care on the temp isnt above say, 90 degrees C.

Mix well and keep an eye on it as it cools, Shake up regularly as it starts to cloud and go thick.

Job done. If you find the mixture a little heavy/thick, you can add a little more spirit to it to get to the right thickness to spray.
leave it thicker for brushing.

I use either those kitchen cleaner spray-bottles or better still, a large plant-sprayer--Not the pump-up type though, they dont seem to work as well with the thicker fluid.

This stuff takes a while to 'dry' but remains soft and rather sticky,--like the official product....
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2012, 03:25 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chicagoland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post

1 part (by volume) hard candle-wax. I used one of those cheapo huge candles from a cheapo-shop. (I'm a 'cheapo' kind of guy!)

1.5 parts cheapo engine-oil.

2-3 parts white-spirit/turps substitute. (according to application ambient temperature.)
Instead of engine oil, I use chain-saw bar lube in my recipe. It's "stickier" than motor oil (it's made to cling to a moving chain) and isn't that expensive.
Sometimes I'll just shoot the bar lube in the cavities.
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  #3  
Old 11-09-2012, 03:36 PM
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Ah-- Chainsaw bar oil will be good....

A few years ago, I had some 'steam-cylinder oil' That stuff was like honey in viscosity and incredibly sticky.

Sadly the oil suppliers that had it, closed down--They could supply practically any oil or solvent you can imagine--Amazing place....

Maybe a steam railroad guy would know the stuff and where to get it
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #4  
Old 11-09-2012, 07:46 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsen View Post
Instead of engine oil, I use chain-saw bar lube in my recipe. It's "stickier" than motor oil (it's made to cling to a moving chain) and isn't that expensive.
Sometimes I'll just shoot the bar lube in the cavities.
Engine fogging oil might be another alternative. Amazon.com: STA-BIL 22001 Fogging Oil - 12 av. oz.: Automotive
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