Rebuilding Driveshaft
 

OK Folks,

I need some help here with two projects. Can someone give me a blow-by-blow description on how to rebuild the driveshaft, as well as replace the motor mounts, including the size of the wrenches I will need?

Mucho Thanks,

Torie

Hi Torie,

Are we talking W115, W123 or W201 here (says he looking at the stable listed in your sig)?

1983 300D
 

It's the turbo diesel (Taxi model) 300D, 1983.

Thanks, Army.

Torie

Here is one
U-Joint 2005
Can you replace the universal joints????? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

My U-joint Repair thread 2011
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
My Benz World post with all of the U-joint sources.
Another U-Joint / Driveshaft Thread - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Tightening Drive Shaft Collar Nut 2011 post #40
How to replace the driveshaft support (carrier) bearing - A step by step guide - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Motor Mounts should be:
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

There is comments in the thread below on the OE Mercedes Motor Mounts and what company sells the same Mounts as an aftermarket product.
Fight Back
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294339-fight-back%3B-post-list-where-parts-you-bought-were-made.html

Forgot to mention, the reason for the driveline work, is to replace the carrier bearing. I believe the U-joint is fine at this point, but am sure will go out also if I don't replace the bearing and flexjoints soon. Keeping it parked til I do the driveline and mounts.

"Can someone give me a blow-by-blow description on how to rebuild the driveshaft..."

I have mentioned this a few times before that everyone seems to have their own idea what "rebuilt" means.
Even what I did when I replaced the U-joint is not a rebuilt Drive Shaft; because it did not include balancing it.

Remember, flex disks stay with the drive shaft. That will help you figure out what bolts to remove. There is a bushing in each end. You may need to drill a hole through it and put a bolt/drill bit.whatever through it to remove.

Mark the drive shaft halves so you can index them correctly relative to each other. The shafts are marked from the factory but there is no telling what a PO has done to it.

Noting how the carrier bearing is oriented before you remove it will save you some time figuring it out

Make the job go easy. Drop the diff 6” . Just 4 bolts into the body above and behind the diff. Use a floor jack to lower easy. This saves having to use a pry bar to clear the centering pilot past the yoke.

Don’t hammer the bearing off. Get a long reach puller. Even a cheap one will work.
Go to a plumbing shop and scrounge a scrap of pipe about 8” x just enough to slip over the spline. Use this to hammer the new bearing and keeper disk into the seat.

What ever you do never put the universal joint in a vice. I saw this done at a MB dealer shop. What some people will do to sell a new drive shaft.

If the car drives smooth now the shaft halves is in the correct orientation. Do what ever you must to guarantee the halves go back in the same place. Punch some marks as close to gether as possible as the factory marks are sort of vague.

I guess every guy on the board has done this job or will do sooner or later. It gets easier every time. Enjoy.

I think the drive shaft uses a 42mm hex or two. My 124 uses 19mm nuts and bolts on the flex discs. I think then123 is the same.

All you need to do is just replace the flex discs, easy, and the carrier bearing. The u joint is not serviceable by the normal DIY person.

You do that only if you are replacing those Bushings.

X2 on marking things.

I think this might have been posted already but they way in which these html links are now displayed I sometimes wonder!

PeachPartsWiki: Driveshaft Support (carrier) Bearing Replacement

One thing that hasn't been mentioned in this thread (so far - so now I'm going to do it!) is to mark the positions of the propshafts before you take them apart.

I used to think that this was one of the most vital stages to the job - however there was a thread (which I'll try and find) where certain information in the FSM came to light which basically says