Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:31 AM
piccolovic's Avatar
OLD LADY
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 779
Rebuilding Driveshaft

OK Folks,

I need some help here with two projects. Can someone give me a blow-by-blow description on how to rebuild the driveshaft, as well as replace the motor mounts, including the size of the wrenches I will need?

Mucho Thanks,

Torie

__________________
1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-15-2012, 12:54 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Hi Torie,

Are we talking W115, W123 or W201 here (says he looking at the stable listed in your sig)?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:24 PM
piccolovic's Avatar
OLD LADY
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 779
1983 300D

It's the turbo diesel (Taxi model) 300D, 1983.

Thanks, Army.

Torie
__________________
1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:54 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 34,937
Here is one
U-Joint 2005
Can you replace the universal joints????? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

My U-joint Repair thread 2011
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
My Benz World post with all of the U-joint sources.
Another U-Joint / Driveshaft Thread - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Tightening Drive Shaft Collar Nut 2011 post #40
How to replace the driveshaft support (carrier) bearing - A step by step guide - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Motor Mounts should be:
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

There is comments in the thread below on the OE Mercedes Motor Mounts and what company sells the same Mounts as an aftermarket product.
Fight Back
Fight Back; Post/List Where The Parts You Bought Were Made
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-15-2012, 04:56 PM
piccolovic's Avatar
OLD LADY
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 779
Forgot to mention, the reason for the driveline work, is to replace the carrier bearing. I believe the U-joint is fine at this point, but am sure will go out also if I don't replace the bearing and flexjoints soon. Keeping it parked til I do the driveline and mounts.
__________________
1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-15-2012, 06:47 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 34,937
Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
Forgot to mention, the reason for the driveline work, is to replace the carrier bearing. I believe the U-joint is fine at this point, but am sure will go out also if I don't replace the bearing and flexjoints soon. Keeping it parked til I do the driveline and mounts.
"Can someone give me a blow-by-blow description on how to rebuild the driveshaft..."

I have mentioned this a few times before that everyone seems to have their own idea what "rebuilt" means.
Even what I did when I replaced the U-joint is not a rebuilt Drive Shaft; because it did not include balancing it.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-15-2012, 07:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 3,827
Remember, flex disks stay with the drive shaft. That will help you figure out what bolts to remove. There is a bushing in each end. You may need to drill a hole through it and put a bolt/drill bit.whatever through it to remove.

Mark the drive shaft halves so you can index them correctly relative to each other. The shafts are marked from the factory but there is no telling what a PO has done to it.

Noting how the carrier bearing is oriented before you remove it will save you some time figuring it out
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting getting paint. 84SD 180,000. Probably up for sale in the fall 2020. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:10 PM
1984 300SD
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 588
Make the job go easy. Drop the diff 6” . Just 4 bolts into the body above and behind the diff. Use a floor jack to lower easy. This saves having to use a pry bar to clear the centering pilot past the yoke.

Don’t hammer the bearing off. Get a long reach puller. Even a cheap one will work.
Go to a plumbing shop and scrounge a scrap of pipe about 8” x just enough to slip over the spline. Use this to hammer the new bearing and keeper disk into the seat.

What ever you do never put the universal joint in a vice. I saw this done at a MB dealer shop. What some people will do to sell a new drive shaft.

If the car drives smooth now the shaft halves is in the correct orientation. Do what ever you must to guarantee the halves go back in the same place. Punch some marks as close to gether as possible as the factory marks are sort of vague.

I guess every guy on the board has done this job or will do sooner or later. It gets easier every time. Enjoy.
__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:11 PM
TheDon's Avatar
Ghost of Diesels Past
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,217
I think the drive shaft uses a 42mm hex or two. My 124 uses 19mm nuts and bolts on the flex discs. I think then123 is the same.

All you need to do is just replace the flex discs, easy, and the carrier bearing. The u joint is not serviceable by the normal DIY person.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:52 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 34,937
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Remember, flex disks stay with the drive shaft. That will help you figure out what bolts to remove. There is a bushing in each end. You may need to drill a hole through it and put a bolt/drill bit.whatever through it to remove.

Mark the drive shaft halves so you can index them correctly relative to each other. The shafts are marked from the factory but there is no telling what a PO has done to it.

Noting how the carrier bearing is oriented before you remove it will save you some time figuring it out
You do that only if you are replacing those Bushings.

X2 on marking things.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-16-2012, 02:57 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I think this might have been posted already but they way in which these html links are now displayed I sometimes wonder!

PeachPartsWiki: Driveshaft Support (carrier) Bearing Replacement

One thing that hasn't been mentioned in this thread (so far - so now I'm going to do it!) is to mark the positions of the propshafts before you take them apart.

I used to think that this was one of the most vital stages to the job - however there was a thread (which I'll try and find) where certain information in the FSM came to light which basically says

Quote:
"yeah well for years and years we didn't bother to put marks on propshafts but after about 1981 we started to do it but even the lads on the shop floor couldn't be bothered to align them when the car was built - so if any of you plebs out there in service-my-car-land happen to notice two marks that aren't aligned then we reckon you are best off putting the propshaft back together as it should have been done in the first place!"

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page