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Second Set of Brake or Tail Lights to a W123 DIY
I know I have seen this done before but I have not seen a complete DIY with pictures. This is my first one so here goes.
Supplies: Working Taillights (this is an addition, not a repair) Set of bulb holders (I scavenged mine for the Junk Yard, cost -$2?) Solder and Soldering Iron Heat shrink or Electrical tape Possibly short piece of automotive style wiring Razor or wire stripper A couple of 10W or 25W bulbs depending on if you want Running or Brake lights So here is the story, I have seen the empty spot on the W123 Taillights. There is a space in the plastic and in the lens but no bulb back there, What Gives!! I wanted to up the rear visibility without being obnoxious and my car (euro 300d) came to me with a hat rack mounted third brake light, So I decided to add running lights. Steps followed by pics. 1. Remove bulb holder from the trunk, unplug the electrical connector, spin off the plastic knobs and carefully back out the bulb holder/backing plate deal. Take it inside or to a comfortable work area with power for soldering. 2. Get together all the other materials including the spare bulb holders. 2.A Do the above steps at the junkyard and pull two of the holders out, take the ones you want to use and keep the bulbs, you wont pay more and it is good for testing! just squeeze GenTLy on the two white tabs and jiggle it out. then cut the wire leaving as much as is possible for your new splice. see steps below for help removing the backing from the bulb holder. 3. You are going to remove the metal bulb holder bracket from the plastic black backing, there are two large clips at each end, they gently but firmly press inwards (towards each other, in pairs) then just barely lift the metal plate away, go to the other side and do the same. 4. Not So Fast! The clip for the electrical connection is still attached and if you like you can remove it also. Two longer single tabs just hook over the back of the plug and they just bend out of the way to allow the plug to slide up and out. This makes the wire ends a little loose so watch out, take pictures along the way to keep everything straight if you like. 5. Now the fun part, the bulb holders just line up and click right into the metal holder, note the little stub that helps direct the lead wire and use it before clicking in the bulb. 6. Is up to you, if you want to join up with the brake/running light at the metal nubbin (the wire end, where the plugs join) you can just solder right to it. You can also cut the power line and go wire to wire inline, or if you want you can desolder the new bulb wire and run a new wire all the way to the lead at the plug. the options are many, basically you want the same signal to the same function. So note which bulb does what (I took pictures on my phone and counted over) and just connect them. Just be sure to insulate all connections and route the wire ends so they don't pinch or rub or touch bare metal or each other. 7. Now run outside quick and excited and make sure that the new bulb functions the way you like, it works when it should and doesn't when it shouldn't. Once you are satisfied, 8. {I always wanted to say this} Assembly is the reverse of removal......HAH but seriously just tuck in all the wires neatly, clip the plug back to the backing, the holder to the backing, and replace the whole deal in the car. PICTURES Before ![]() Here is what you have when removed, see the empty hole on the right?? also see the bulb holder loose from the JunkYard ![]() ![]() Pinch these in on one side, lift, then the other side, lift, and the whole thing comes away ![]() Dont forget to detach the plug for ease of maneuvering, leave it attached if you want but it is easier out of the way lift these and slide it up and out ![]() Here is what they look like behind there ![]() I had jumpers already (I geuss Euros dont come with running lights?) I used this feed as my supply, and put in a small jumper to power the corner running light, You will very Likely not see this in yours ![]() There is the connection and the holder in place (I had a spliced wire, and another connection, again if you have more wire available or whatever, you can avoid having two connections. ![]() Here they all are in the new home ![]() I used a brake light bulb at first, I was worried that high wattage would melt my lens if left on continuously, gives you an idea of the brightness, imagine if I used my actual brake-lights at the same time!! ![]() Here they are with lower wattage bulbs, I am going to replace all four at some time so they match exactly and it doesn't look like i am maybe braking, looks boss right?!? Flash ![]() No FLash ![]() There you have it, As always be careful as this plastic is real old by now, and it does take a little force to detach some of the clips. Do any mods at your own risk and be sure to check and recheck that they work properly and haven't shorted out, it would be bad to have no lights on the back and not know it......
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD Last edited by rjz5400; 06-22-2015 at 08:59 PM. |
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