I've seen my share of snow. A properly running diesel doesn't need the glow test until you get down below 0 degrees. At that point, you need every possible advantage in your favor and a plug with a colder tip might be the straw that breaks the camel's back.

I'll modify my estimate to say that 90% of the readership of this forum don't need to make the test, unless they have an engine with marginal compression.

Get a precision resistor they usually come in fixed values and are dirt cheap. Something around one ohm would be ideal. Again just a cheap film type precision 1/2 watt resistor will do. To get some ideal of where the calibration of vour digital meter precision is just measure one of them.

What your meter is indicating will give you some ideal of how close it is to the resistors value. The precision resistors are acurate to within 1 percent of their claimed value. You can extrapolate the comparison readings to get a good picture of what your meter will indicate for the .7 to .9 ohm readings to be expected from a glow plug.

I cannot remember the lowest common value right now but 3.3 ohms is pretty common. Three of them wired not in series but beside each other or in paralell will give you a 1.1 ohm reference. To see what your meter indicates. Basically you are using it for a calibration refference from a more technical perspective. Normally you would calibrate your meter to it. Since this is not practical with a cheap digital meter you deal with any correction needed mentally. Adding or subtracting the differeance from what your meter reads from the 1.1 ohm standard to whatever you read from the glow plugs.

Which milliohm meter do you own? The $500 or $5000 one?

FYI, I doubt there are more than 3 forum members who own a milliohm meter.

Why won't you discuss/argue the useless readings "used Glow plugs" give.?

I'll have to disagree with you that an ammeter is a waste of time. You are correct that it measures consumption, not location. If you take a look at the construction of a glow plug (see pic), the only way the tip does not get hot is when there is a short at the junction the "heating coil" and "regulating coil" near the tip to the case, and the ammeter will measure a different current (higher) than normal, that is the time to pull it to test in a vise. An ammeter will save you time and the trouble from pulling all glow plugs to test in a vise, a miserable and unnecessary job.

http://www.boschautoparts.com/BAP_Technical_Resources%2fDiesel%20Parts%2f201232_GlowPlugTechGd08.pdf

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I have three Milli ohm Meters, MAC, Amprobe, and FLUKE, $1400.00 - $600..

FYI: There are at least 30 members owning Milli ohm Meters.

I have proven in OE test labs (to electrical engineering satisfaction) that the ammeter used in this manner can give false data = pass damaged or defective glow plugs.

IMO the ohm test is roughly 50% accurate..
I clearly state: The only 100% accurate test = glow it in a vice.
The visual location, heat color is conclusive.
Too often I work on vehicles tested with other methods, my answer is to offer free glow plugs if none test bad in the vice..
I have never needed to pay off, and convinced many owners their chosen test method was flawed.

Four factors matter, regardless what others think.
* The vehicle is yours.
* The repair bill is yours
* If it fails to start who suffers.
* The final Decision is yours...

I will not judge you for using other methods, because it is not my vehicle...

Due to the press of business, I will not be able to answer this thread further until late December.


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