remote starter install, need a vacuum valve

[weird beard]

I am gathering the parts required to install a remote starter on my w126, it is getting cold here and she really needs some warm-up time.

Does anyone know where I can find a normally open vacuum control valve, preferable if it vents to atmosphere, to interrupt the shutdown signal to my IP?

Just looking for something from the pick-n-pull. Does not have to be off a Benz. Someone must have an idea for something off some sort of gasser. EGR control, cruise, evap, something small, cheap, readily available.

Thanks in advance

[kerry]

There is at one thread here on that topic from very long ago. Can't remember the ultimate outcome. I do remember that the switchover valves in the climate control system were discussed in it. There is also a member on Malta (?) who has a 115 gasser converted to diesel and somewhere is a picture of his electric to vacuum shut off conversion.

[300SD81]

Climate control valve or overboost valve

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by 300SD81

Climate control valve or overboost valve

Bingo.

If not readily available, an EGR solenoid from a 4cyl ranger/mustang/etc will work as well

[Mark Rapier]

You need it to in effect act and release the constant state vacuum that has been applied to the IP shutoff solenoid during shut down with the ignition key switch, and then cut off or continue to bleed vacuum off the shutoff circuit after the car remote starts until you get to the car and turn the key to the on or run position, correct?

Does the remote's aux. operating signal provide a pluse or a switched constant state? Because you would need some method of latching whatever valve you use for the duration of the time between when the engine is started and when you get to it and turn the key in order for the engine to keep running during that time, correct?

[weird beard]

The remote is not automatic, it is a manual remote starter, if that makes sense. Three buttons on the unit A B C with corresponding outputs. A latches "on", B and C are momentary.

"A" will be used for ignition and the shutdown. Ideally the vacuum switch will block the vacuum signal and bleed out to atmosphere. Hopefully "A" will also run the glow plug timer, have not had a look into the ignition switch wiring.

"B" will be used to activate the glow plugs if "A" cannot. I will hook it up anyways to allow me to manually glow my engine on really cold days.

"C" will be used for starting, naturally.

All these outputs can be configured as NO or NC and can be either + or -. All done inside the module by moving the outputs to a different terminal.

No tach input, no brake input, no learning mode, each output is energized as long as I am pushing the button. The unit is turned back off by pressing "A" again. This means I can also use it as a turbo timer.

I may get fancy and wire in some relays to switch the vacuum valve back open if the brakes are depressed. Security feature. Using the overboost valve would save some searching for parts, as mine is not connected anyway.

[Mark Rapier]

One of the problems as I attempted to illustrate is that in order for the engine to run the vacuum to the IP shutoff needs to first be cut off,
then bled off, and then and needs to stay cut off for the engine to stay running. The problem with most of the vacuum valves/switches that are used in automotive applications are solenoid operated. Generally speaking solenoid operators are not engineered or rated for continuous operation and most solenoid valves are not latching (meaning that once activated their state remains steady after deactivation).


If you use a solenoid operated valve you would need to keep it energized the entire time you wanted the engine to run unattended, if you are considering a relay to provide current to the solenoid it would also require being energized continuously if if was not a latching relay.


For an engine start a few minutes before you get to the car might not be much of a problem but keeping solenoids energized longer than that might be problematic either supply current wise or premature solenoid coil failure wise.


For the vacuum control issue one possible solution might be a motorized valve similar to a Pollack valve used to switch WVO/Diesel fuel feeds and returns in grease burners. Basically a 3 port valve one inlet/two outlets or one outlet/two inlets where you could connect it between the IP shutoff and the vacuum source from the key switch, in one position it connects the vacuum to the shut off and when activated it cuts off vacuum and opens the shutoff to the atmosphere. Once you got to the car and turned the ignition key on you could have that action reverse the Pollack valve back to it's original position.


That way you could use your remote to start the engine and allow it to run unattended warming up for a period that could be longer than just a couple minutes, I assume that being in Canada that is at least part of what you intended to do, start the car 30 minutes before you leave for work or home and let it warm up before you get into it to drive somewhere.

[Diesel911]

I have never checked this; but after the Car sits overnight is there any Vacuum left in the Shutoff Circuit?

A lot of the Mercedes Vacuum System seems very porous.

[weird beard]

Got my valving sorted out, now need to wire the darn thing in. Where is the easiest points to access the ignition circuit and the glow plug circuit? Or just the ignition if it will signal the glow plugs too. I know the starter circuit can be accessed on the passenger inner fender. I would also like to keep the wiring in one place if possible. The ignition switch is not really accessible.

[mach4]

Although it appears that you're pretty far down the path with the current setup, an alternative would be to go full manual. I have this setup in my project car. I have two switches on the dash, one is for glow and the other is for shutdown. The glow circuit uses the classic Ford starter solenoid and the shutdown uses a vacuum solenoid.

In this case your A would turn on the ignition, B would glow and C would be start. Actually, you probably wouldn't even need A, but it would be better to get the alternator working right away.

Just a very simple alternative should someone else be looking at an option for a remote start on a 617 diesel.

[Mark Rapier]

Originally Posted by weird beard

Got my valving sorted out, now need to wire the darn thing in. Where is the easiest points to access the ignition circuit and the glow plug circuit? Or just the ignition if it will signal the glow plugs too. I know the starter circuit can be accessed on the passenger inner fender. I would also like to keep the wiring in one place if possible. The ignition switch is not really accessible.

You could disconnect the electrical connector off the rear of the ignition electrical switch body. Then you could splice/tap into whatever circuits by either splicing into the individual wires or you could open up the connector shell and solder your connections directly to the female terminals.

Make sure your battery is disconnected, make note of the wire color codes and their respective positions before you open the connector shell.

I would get to the pick and pull, grab an ignition switch and its mating electrical connector plug with as much wire as you could get, and then use those to fabricate a pigtail that you could insert inbetween your car's electrical connector and ignition electrical switch. That way you wouldn't need to change of your car's original wiring and you could remove the pigtail whenever you sold the car or whated to use the remote starter in some other diesel benz in the future.

[weird beard]

I thought of the pigtail idea, but there is no male connector to mate up to the existing ignition switch connector.

I was hoping to locate a circuit somewhere that is more access able to supply ignition. Could I not back feed from the glow plug connector? Is there a ignition at the fender mounted junction block at near the alternator, or is there some other junction like it?

[Zulfiqar]

what you need is a simple vacuum switch valve - a toyota, mazda, subaru, honda evap, egr or even an ac control idle up in a careburettor engine has it. Plenty in the JY

you intercept the line to the IP, make it cut vacuum to the SOV, your engine then can be started, when you twist the key to ON the ignition switch vavle closes off and the solenoid denergises at the same time. Hence your engine remains running.

[Mark Rapier]

Originally Posted by weird beard

I thought of the pigtail idea, but there is no male connector to mate up to the existing ignition switch connector.

I was hoping to locate a circuit somewhere that is more access able to supply ignition. Could I not back feed from the glow plug connector? Is there a ignition at the fender mounted junction block at near the alternator, or is there some other junction like it?

As I'd mentioned I would use an ignition switch which has the male pins, the switch can be disassembled by taking the black plastic section that holds the pins out of the metal housing. Then you'll have an exact mating male connector section which you can easily modify to attach wires to each of the pin's backside by modifying and removing a couple sections of the switching contact components on that back side.