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  #1  
Old 12-13-2012, 05:51 PM
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Unhappy DId I kill my transmission?

I just changed my front pads and rotors on my 1983 300td. Went out for a test run and worked the brakes. After one particularly hard stop from 35 down to about 5 mph I released the brake and got back on the accelerator and ....uh-oh.....the motor revs but I go nowhere! I came to a stop and shut it off. I collected my thoughts, started her back up, went into D and .....nothing. A whizzing noise ZZZZZZZZZZZ. Put it in park and the wizz noised changed. Ran through the gears PRDS2 and back to park. The wizz slowed down. Went back to D and the tranny caught and I drove off shifting fine through all 4 gears.
I figured I should try another stop to see if I could replicate it and I did.Same problem after a moderate stop. Got it going again the same way and I pulled into a service center. I smelled burnt clutches or fluid, you all know that nasty smell. Fluid level looks good, and it is red.
What happened? It drove fine after that for the 5 miles home but I seemed to notice a driveline growl at around 50 mph, 2100 rpm, right were it locks.

Any ideas? I won't drive it again until I know it is safe?

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:09 PM
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Possible cause:

Broken plastic clip on the rod that actuates the shift modulator valve on top the injektion pump...and. of course, check the fluid level....
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  #3  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:18 PM
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Hmm

It sounds like something shifted out of position.

I would also inspect:
* Engine mounts.
* Transmission mount.
* Shift linkage bushings.
* Bowden cable and bracket.
* Plugged transmission filter ?

.
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
It sounds like something shifted out of position.
Thanks Roy! Indeed the motor and transmission have shifted. Upon inspection I found the tail of the transmission shifted +- 3/4 of an inch toward the passenger side. I have a transmission mount on its' way, it should be here Monday. Should I change the motor mounts as well? Is this shift an indicator that the motor mounts are weak too?
Can I straighten out the motor and transmission and drive her until Monday without causing damage? What is the recommended way to find center?
Thanks again.
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2012, 10:39 AM
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How would a shifting motor or transmission cause the transmission not to engage? There must be some other issue related to the shifting that is causing the problem.
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  #6  
Old 12-14-2012, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by kerry View Post
How would a shifting motor or transmission cause the transmission not to engage? There must be some other issue related to the shifting that is causing the problem.
I have a bad shift link bushing. I believe that is the cause. Is it easier to change the bushing while the transmission mount is out?
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  #7  
Old 12-14-2012, 10:54 AM
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How exactly is the bad shifter bushing causing the problem? If it wasn't going into D, wouldn't putting it in 2 or L get the transmission in a gear in which it would move? Wouldn't moving the shifter back and forth a little solve the bad bushing problem? I haven't heard of a bad shifter bushing causing the transmission not to engage at all. Perhaps it would.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
How exactly is the bad shifter bushing causing the problem? If it wasn't going into D, wouldn't putting it in 2 or L get the transmission in a gear in which it would move? Wouldn't moving the shifter back and forth a little solve the bad bushing problem? I haven't heard of a bad shifter bushing causing the transmission not to engage at all. Perhaps it would.
Missing shifter linkage bushings will prevent the selector lever on the trans from going into the correct positions, leaving it between 2 gears. It's pretty common for worn bushings to cause odd shifting issues. If the bushing is completely gone or badly deteriorated the trans would never be in quite the right place.
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  #9  
Old 12-14-2012, 03:28 PM
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Have you checked the fluid level? Could be it is low and the hard stop sloshed it in the pan so the pump sucked in air. If low on fluid, the torque converter does not transmit force. Putting it in N will fill the torque converter fast (most cars). That works for my 65 Chrysler which has "morning sickness", meaning the fluid somehow drains out of the torque converter overnight. I used to have to wait a minute in P or D before getting some drive, but later read the "N" trick, and can drive away in 10 sec.
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  #10  
Old 12-14-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Have you checked the fluid level? Could be it is low and the hard stop sloshed it in the pan so the pump sucked in air. If low on fluid, the torque converter does not transmit force. Putting it in N will fill the torque converter fast (most cars). That works for my 65 Chrysler which has "morning sickness", meaning the fluid somehow drains out of the torque converter overnight. I used to have to wait a minute in P or D before getting some drive, but later read the "N" trick, and can drive away in 10 sec.
this happened on my 87 vw and a ford taurus i used to drive. might be worth checking into as its the first thing i thought of when i read the OP's post
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  #11  
Old 12-14-2012, 05:39 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by ytmtnman View Post
Thanks Roy! Indeed the motor and transmission have shifted. Upon inspection I found the tail of the transmission shifted +- 3/4 of an inch toward the passenger side. I have a transmission mount on its' way, it should be here Monday. Should I change the motor mounts as well? Is this shift an indicator that the motor mounts are weak too?
Can I straighten out the motor and transmission and drive her until Monday without causing damage? What is the recommended way to find center?
Thanks again.
Replace all of them, it could not shift that much unless the engine mounts are bad/weak.
Start with the transmission mount, then one engine mount at a time.

Remember to disconnect the engine shock BEFORE raising the engine.


.
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2012, 05:43 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by ytmtnman View Post
I have a bad shift link bushing. I believe that is the cause. Is it easier to change the bushing while the transmission mount is out?
The bushings must be replaced, partial shift lever engagement is unacceptable.


.
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:10 PM
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Measures taken, but problem still persists

I replaced the 2 shifter bushings and the transmission mount but the problem of slipping after a moderate stop still occors. Putting it in neutral gets it going again within seconds. The fluid level appears good and it is red. Smells a little burned so I am going to change the ATF and filter. What more should I look into?
Thanks!
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:17 PM
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Dumb question I'm sure, but you checked the fluid with the engine running and on perfectly level ground right?
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
Dumb question I'm sure, but you checked the fluid with the engine running and on perfectly level ground right?
Like 5 times over two days. Transmission warm, idling in park on level ground. I have a hard time getting accurate tranny fluid levels. I hope I'm not the only one! So I take multiple readings and when they agree, I take that to be accurate. But I will take another level reading just to put my fears to rest.

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