You forgot the string method, you'll need a string, a ruler, wrenches for tie rods, and I use jack stands to hold the string up at the right height.

Do one side at a time:

Car on a level floor, steering wheel straight (no matter what the wheels are doing), pull a length of string along one side of the car (bumper to bumper) making it level with the center of the wheel hubs (front and back). Mercedes mags are great for this because the tri-star logo on the hub gives you a bullseye for center hub. Move the string so it's the same distance away from the front and rear hub center point, 2 inches is a good working distance from the string to the bullseye. This is your "laser line".

Now, do the toe adjustments. Wherever the string passes a wheel rim (twice at the rear and twice at the front), measure the distance from the string to the rim. Adjust the wheel toe making the two rim-to-string distances at that wheel the same. Do this by turning the tie rods until it is so. When that happens you have zero toe on that wheel. Tighten tie rod in that position, move on to next wheel.

Having some dusty dirt under the wheel makes it easier to move the wheel by turing the tie rod, yes you can do this by reaching in from behind the front wheels with a wrench, lay on the ground.

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D