Here's an update for you all,

After confirming that all the timing was correct, including the injection pump, I still could not get it to start while cranking. Just turned over too slowly to fire. I could get smoke, but that was it.

Saturday afternoon my Dad helped me pull start it and finally got it to run.
After it was warmed up to operating temperature, I parked it and shut it down. While it was still warm, it started up pretty well.

The next day however, no amount of cranking would get it started. Cycled the glow pugs several times. Tried WD40 in the intake and still would not go.

As a last ditch effort, I gave it a tiny shot of starting fluid and it finally started. I took it down the road and drove it for 20 minutes or so. I'm getting a lot of smoke at idle, but after it's fully warmed up it will run clear.

The smoke is bluish so I'm pretty sure it is oil burning.

Getting a lot of smoke from the blow-by also.

After getting it as hot as it did when it broke down, is it possible that the rings are carboned up and causing it to smoke now? It didn't before.

That has been suggested by someone I know. If so, is there a way to clean the carbon from the rings, like Seafoam, AutoRx or some other type of cleaner?

I'm also looking at replacing the starter with a Mean Green Heavy Duty starter which will run me about $349. Are there any other hi-torque starters out there that you would recommend?

Thank you for your thoughts and input.

Rick

Magnaflux is the typical way to find cracks. Most engine shops can do that cheap. The parts look simple - iron filings and a strong magnet, but I have never done or looked into buying. I think that cracks around the valve seat are the biggest concern. They are probably most common because that is the area of greatest temperature gradients.

Some heads are known for cracking. In M-B diesels, I have read that the 6 cyl heads almost all crack eventually. In Mopar world (where I hang out), the 80-90's Magnum small block V-8 heads often crack between the intake and exhaust valves because the factory induction hardened the castings around the seats rather than install hardened valve seats. Otherwise, people like those heads.

Small cracks in a head are common and I think the usual fix is to drill and plug at the ends to stop the crack from spreading, but otherwise leave it as is. However, I don't think that works for cracks around the valve seats. In gas engines, I think a machine shop could install hardened seats. Years ago, I had that done for my big-block Mopar for <$10 ea, but don't know about M-B diesels.

I would jsut get the bosch reman for a starter. Sounds like you are throwing good money after bad.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
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#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

It is quite involved to rebuild these diesel engines and the parts cost much more than say a U.S. small block. New turbo pistons cost ~$500 each, so most go with a used set. When my 1985 engine failed at 330K, I found a used engine on craigslist for $300. I was taking a chance, but lucked out. In my car now, and I see no blowby at all. The cam looks new. I made a stab at rebuilding my 85 engine, mostly for fun. So far I installed new cylinder liners (see post), a step which few have conquered. Haven't taken the block in for machine work yet.