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  #16  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:19 PM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
That's tomorrows plan Z. Thank you.

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  #17  
Old 01-27-2013, 01:48 PM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
No dice! Even at 100C the two simply spun. I laid some "freez-off" on 'em heavy while running. #2 was seeping air bubbles, while #6 was not. At wits end, and I dont want to break them off in the head, at least NOT in my garage where there arent the tools to drill ream etc. Tried to snug them back down, but again, they simple spin in place. Aint goin' in, aint comin' out.

Put the intake back, clutch and fan back on. It starts, glows ( which is wierd as I really buggered up the center contacts on both), and runs fine.

Time to find a pro who can wrestle, drill, etc these out in a fully equipped shop. Heck, I think a slide hammer might do it, but at the risk of breaking the body.

This is the best running example of a 606.912 I've owned out of three, so would like to keep it so!

Thank you to all who replied. Finally time to find a good diesel MBz indie in town. My work, etc doesnt give me much leisure time to spend anyhow.
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2013, 01:57 PM
TheDon's Avatar
Ghost of Diesels Past
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,285
That's rather odd. I keep trying to bac them out while spinning them an hopefully wear the tips down so they will pull out
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2013, 02:01 PM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
Totally! The other four came out that way, squeakin all the way, typcially with a large blade screwdriver behind them pushing out while you turn, or sometimes jsut by keeping some pressure on the ratchet.

But these two I cannot seem to get to move. Either way. Even tried tapping them back in and re-threading them. Nope.Spinnin' sobs they are!

( my suspicion is that someone did not ream the carbon out properly if they were replaced in the past.)

Back to finish buttoning her up. Find an good indie mech this week. Drive the 12 mpg winter truck for another week.

I miss my 31-33mpg MBz!

Again, thanks again all!
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  #20  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:08 AM
1984 300SD
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 588
I did this on a 123.
After unwinding the threaded portion all the way out, to break the carbon from the pencil I used an angle drill fastened to the terminal pin to spin the glow plug while pulling back and prying up under the edge of the bolt portion. Also if real snug a socket in a drill adapter should work.
I took 15 minutes and the plug got hot but I could see it slowly coming out.
I taped a copper tube to the vacuum cleaner hose to pickup the fine dust in the camber.
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  #21  
Old 01-28-2013, 06:44 AM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
Imaginative!

Oh, and BTW, I think I said the glow system still works. Naw, its totally in-operative, meaning one or both of the spinners are shorted out.

I **really** dont want to pull this head; compression and seal are mint.

Last edited by WINGAS; 01-29-2013 at 05:59 AM.
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  #22  
Old 01-29-2013, 06:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,078
Did you even try my suggestion? The gp removal tool provides huge amounts of leverage - way more than your screwdriver and removes them straight with even pressure.
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  #23  
Old 01-29-2013, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 126
OTC6005A Glow Plug Remover Tool Kit SPx OTC | eBay
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  #24  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:00 PM
Gene
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 1,102
Yeah, that dont help much when they are broken off right at the radius before the threads! All done. Had an indy shop whittle the little sons of gons outta there. All is good with a glow system full op! The relay had indeed popped; one of the six small brass strips had blown in half.

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