Hey guys,

I've been reading for the past few days on how to correct the IP timing.

What I don't understand is what makes the RIV A/B light easier than the IP lock tool?

I believe with the lock tool the IP needs to be pulled from the engine (once placed in the correct position). The lock tool is then inserted with the IP out of the engine and then re-installed. The lock tool is then removed from the IP.

Do you not need to pull the IP with the RIV A/B light? Why does the forum say the lock tool is harder?

I know I'm missing something.

Thanks,

-John
'92 300D 2.5 Turbo

Technically you don't need any special tools to time the M-pumps. I have the A-B light and use it, but would feel quite comfortable using a mirror and flashlight if needed. Just set your crank position to 14*ATDC with the #1 cam lobes up, then look through the threaded port to see if the vee ridge is perfectly centered in the window. Just make sure you're not getting a parallax view of center. Loosen the four pump bolts and use the adjuster to rotate the pump in the direction that gets you to "vee-center". Nine out of ten times this will get you close enough to the optimal fine time position.



*or whatever setting the FSM designates

Sounds good - I'm going to attempt to do this tomorrow if it warms up a bit.

-John

As the Timing Chain elongates/stretches your Fuel Injection Pump Timing becomes late/retarded.

If you use the Timing/Locking Pin I suggest putting a Note on your Steering Wheel so you don’t start the Engine with the Pin in place.

If you have the Timing/Locking Pin you could rotate the Engine till it is coming up on the Compression stroke and continue past top dead center to the proper After Top Dead Center timing degrees (one of the under the Hood Emission Stickers on your Car should have that info for your specific year and model).

Remove the Plug where the Timing/Locking Pin would go and loosen the Fuel Injection Pump Nuts or Blots where it bolts to the Engine and also the rear support bracket Nut/Bolt.

Insert the Timing Locking Pin so that the groove in the Pin end of it is Horizontal after it is screwed all the way in.

Since the Timing Chain stretch retards the timing a slight rotation of the top of your Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine Block should cause the Pump to lock to the Timing/Locking Pin.

Tighten up the all of the Nuts or Bolts that Hold the Fuel Injection Pump down and remove the Timing Locking Pin and replace the Plug and you are don.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

From the looks of it - and from what I've read - it looks like I need to pull the vacuum pump off in order to loosen the three front IP bolts.

Is this correct?

Thanks,

-John

In the Instructions on adjustment of the IP it has "Loosen mounting bolts Flange and Bracket". It does not say to remove the Vacuum Pump. But, apparently the 3 mounting Bolts do go throut the Vacuum Pump; but, it just has to loosen them not to remove them.
I am guessing there must be some Self Locking Nuts and maybe a Washer on the Fuel Injection Pump end of the Bolts.

I think the Vacuum Pump has to come off if you need to remove the Injection Pump from the Engine.

Attached Files

603 0761.pdf (282.0 KB, 495 views)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The three front bolts don't run through the VP, though they do fit into little carve outs in the pump profile. You only need to remove the VP if the IP needs to be pulled.

Bad news - I was able to loosen the front 3 bolts and the 1 rear on the Injection Pump. Had the engine positioned correctly - thought everything was going well.

I went to adjust the IP and found the PO had epoxied the adjustment screw. Once I pulled the epoxy off - I found the adjustment screw just spun.

Not sure why - but it appears the adjustment screw is non-operational.

Any thoughts? How should I proceed?

-John

As long as you are adjusting the Timing with the Engine off you can move the Fuel Injection Pump by Hand just as others do on the 617s.

It is easier to twist the Fuel Injection Pump if you loosen and lift of the Fuel Injection Hard Lines where they attach to the Fuel Injection Pump and also loosen them at the Injectors. Otherwise it is hard to turn the Fuel Injection Pump against the tension of all of those Fuel Lines.

When you reinstall Hard Lines tighten them at the Fuel Injection Pump first. Crank the Engine to bleed the Air out of them and tighten the Fuel Injection Hard Lines at the Injectors.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's weird. I was going to suggest just using a big pair of Channellocks to rotate the pump--I use this method on VWs and 61X engines--but got to thinking that the turnbuckle may actually prevent you from rotating the pump at all. If it's stripped, then you may need to pull the pump back enough to slide it out of the way. I'd be curious to see what it looks like, as I've never seen this happen before.

He can try that. I think if the Fuel Injection Lines are left on it will tend to spring back.
In the Pic I used the big Channel Locks on mine but not the Fuel Injection Lines are not on.
I did not use the Channel Locks to Musle the Pump I used the leverage to tap on the Channel Lock Handle to nude the Pump a tiny amount till I got My proper amount of drips.

However, if he is using the Timing/Locking Tool He just has to rotate it by hand and lock it. In the case of the drip timing it is easy to overshoot where you want to be so I just give it tiny nudges.

When I timed the Volvo I also removed the Fuel Injection Lines. It made it easier to install the Dial Indicator setup and made it less likely for Me to drop the Indicator; and at the same time made the IP easier to rotate.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am not sure which of the IP rotation parts are broken but they don't seem to cost much?
The part numbers are to the best of My Knowlege. If you decide to order them besure to give your VIN number so you get the correct part for your specific car.

6010740228 Set Screw Port-Closing fine adjustment has an MSRP of 5.50

6010740632 Sleeve Port-closing Fine Adjustment has an MSRP of $11.50

The Bottom Screw/Bolt that goes through the above Sleeve to bolt it to the Block is just a regular Metric Bolt.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just checked my spare 603, and it looks like you could just unscrew the 10mm bolt on the bottom of the turnbuckle, which will allow you to rotate the pump.