IP - Injection Pump Timing - 300D 2.5 603

[homepagz]

Hey guys,

I've been reading for the past few days on how to correct the IP timing.

What I don't understand is what makes the RIV A/B light easier than the IP lock tool?

I believe with the lock tool the IP needs to be pulled from the engine (once placed in the correct position). The lock tool is then inserted with the IP out of the engine and then re-installed. The lock tool is then removed from the IP.

Do you not need to pull the IP with the RIV A/B light? Why does the forum say the lock tool is harder?

I know I'm missing something.

Thanks,

-John
'92 300D 2.5 Turbo

[auspumpen]

Technically you don't need any special tools to time the M-pumps. I have the A-B light and use it, but would feel quite comfortable using a mirror and flashlight if needed. Just set your crank position to 14*ATDC with the #1 cam lobes up, then look through the threaded port to see if the vee ridge is perfectly centered in the window. Just make sure you're not getting a parallax view of center. Loosen the four pump bolts and use the adjuster to rotate the pump in the direction that gets you to "vee-center". Nine out of ten times this will get you close enough to the optimal fine time position.



*or whatever setting the FSM designates

[homepagz]

Sounds good - I'm going to attempt to do this tomorrow if it warms up a bit.

-John

[Diesel911]

As the Timing Chain elongates/stretches your Fuel Injection Pump Timing becomes late/retarded.

If you use the Timing/Locking Pin I suggest putting a Note on your Steering Wheel so you don’t start the Engine with the Pin in place.

If you have the Timing/Locking Pin you could rotate the Engine till it is coming up on the Compression stroke and continue past top dead center to the proper After Top Dead Center timing degrees (one of the under the Hood Emission Stickers on your Car should have that info for your specific year and model).

Remove the Plug where the Timing/Locking Pin would go and loosen the Fuel Injection Pump Nuts or Blots where it bolts to the Engine and also the rear support bracket Nut/Bolt.

Insert the Timing Locking Pin so that the groove in the Pin end of it is Horizontal after it is screwed all the way in.

Since the Timing Chain stretch retards the timing a slight rotation of the top of your Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine Block should cause the Pump to lock to the Timing/Locking Pin.

Tighten up the all of the Nuts or Bolts that Hold the Fuel Injection Pump down and remove the Timing Locking Pin and replace the Plug and you are don.

[homepagz]

From the looks of it - and from what I've read - it looks like I need to pull the vacuum pump off in order to loosen the three front IP bolts.

Is this correct?

Thanks,

-John

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by homepagz

From the looks of it - and from what I've read - it looks like I need to pull the vacuum pump off in order to loosen the three front IP bolts.

Is this correct?

Thanks,

-John

In the Instructions on adjustment of the IP it has "Loosen mounting bolts Flange and Bracket". It does not say to remove the Vacuum Pump. But, apparently the 3 mounting Bolts do go throut the Vacuum Pump; but, it just has to loosen them not to remove them.
I am guessing there must be some Self Locking Nuts and maybe a Washer on the Fuel Injection Pump end of the Bolts.

I think the Vacuum Pump has to come off if you need to remove the Injection Pump from the Engine.

[auspumpen]

The three front bolts don't run through the VP, though they do fit into little carve outs in the pump profile. You only need to remove the VP if the IP needs to be pulled.

[homepagz]

Bad news - I was able to loosen the front 3 bolts and the 1 rear on the Injection Pump. Had the engine positioned correctly - thought everything was going well.

I went to adjust the IP and found the PO had epoxied the adjustment screw. Once I pulled the epoxy off - I found the adjustment screw just spun.

Not sure why - but it appears the adjustment screw is non-operational.

Any thoughts? How should I proceed?

-John

[Diesel911]

I am not sure which of the IP rotation parts are broken but they don't seem to cost much?
The part numbers are to the best of My Knowlege. If you decide to order them besure to give your VIN number so you get the correct part for your specific car.

6010740228 Set Screw Port-Closing fine adjustment has an MSRP of 5.50

6010740632 Sleeve Port-closing Fine Adjustment has an MSRP of $11.50

The Bottom Screw/Bolt that goes through the above Sleeve to bolt it to the Block is just a regular Metric Bolt.

[auspumpen]

I just checked my spare 603, and it looks like you could just unscrew the 10mm bolt on the bottom of the turnbuckle, which will allow you to rotate the pump.