Sorry that the alignment is off. I did a cut and paste from Bangshift and it usually comes out OK.


Proof that I haven't been totally idle -

Intercooler is basically ready to go. I owe it some hose clamps and sealer here and there but other than wiring everything's pretty much ready to go.

Photographic evidence:

Intercooler in place and both air and water plumbing is in place.



Detail of the rear (firewall) side. Note the push-on water fittings - no clamps needed here. The next step is to build a heat shield to keep the exhaust heat away from the water lines.



Lines coming thru the interior. This seemed to be the best path.



Interior view looking at the rear cab wall. Note that all of the hose holes are lined with slit vacuum hose. Tomorrow I'll seal all of these with heat resistant caulk.



Water lines coming thru the bed floor. Having a hoist made this job MUCH easier!


Making a bulkhead connector out of nylon plumbing bits. That's a 3/4" female NPT to 3/4" hose barb (see next pic). Turns out that the inside diameter is exactly right for a 1/2" NPT tap which I have left over from my days as a plumber. Easy-peasy.



Fittings in place in the cooler. Note that the pump (a 12VDC submergeable bilge pump) is held in place by being screwed to a hunk of 1/4" SS plate that I had lying around. I need to add a 90* elbow on the return line.




Cooler assess door in the tonneau. Reinstall the screws and all is ready to run. I'll look into Dzus fasteners for that.



Finally a shot of the spiffy aluminum angle base that I made to hold the cooler in place. A bungee cord goes across the top diagonally to both hold the lid on and keep the cooler in place on the base.




So some details but Mutt will be ready if they find a spot for us at the meet.

Dan

Looking good!

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Back from the track. I changed too many things at once so I'm not sure what I learned.

I did bump the record to 100 .9xxx (I don't have the timing slip here in the house) from 100.1918. So a little better. I'm not sure I have the cam timed the way I need it but so far no big difference. The truck felt STRONG off the line and I'd sometimes get a puff of black smoke upon startup so I'm sure it's a bit richer than before - this makes me think Greazzer's fuel pressure spring is doing it's job.

I tried the tall tires (~28") and the short ones (~23") with little difference in top speed - tall ones slightly better. I went thru the traps at about 3600 RPM with the tall ones and 4300 RPM with the short ones but speed changed very little - not sure what to make of that.

Also now sure if cam timing is optimized so I'll mess with that over the winter. I might run some dyno runs to see if I can read the differences. Pricey but WAY cheaper than towing to Ohio to a closed track.

My next major mod will be a Dieselmeken pump. I'll check with Goren for optimum IP timing, etc. and we'll see which spring he recommends.

Dan

Whoo-Hoo! I have a probable shipping date for the Dieselmeken pump. Look for pics around February 1st. or so. 8mm elephants (something like that) and other magic tricks!

Dan

Alright! I'm excited to hear what the new IP does on the track.

__________________
'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Some action on Mutt The Race Truck!

I just got the Email from Goren Lindgren at Dieselmeken in Sweden and the new hot rodded injection pump is ready to ship. Should be good for OODLES of extra HP, which are needed! We have to work out the international payment thing but it should ship soon.

Here's a pic he sent. Notice it's signed! I think it's on Goren's test bench - necessary for any significant mods to one of these.





Now all I have to do is install the darn thing and figure out how to use the adjustments that are available. I also had the lift pump rebuilt - it's ready but it only has to come from South Carolina so it should beat the IP here.

Maybe this should be in the performance thread but I suppose the performance guys will look here, too.

Dan

Congratulations, Dan! You are going to be FLYING at the end of April! Seriously, this will be like a night and day difference.

Goran has posted some videos of how to adjust a Mercedes pump, if you check his Youtube channel.

__________________
'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

But my Swedish sucks! Hope they have subtitles.

Thanks for the tip - I'll go looking.

Back from YouTube. I'm guessing my existing pump is an MW? I have an internal ALDA whereas the new pump is an M and has an external ALDA which is MUCH more adjustable. He has set it up in a way that he thinks will work with my engine as is but I'll probably need to mess with it as I make changes. It also looks like I can make a simplified shut-off system, which is great news.

Has anyone done a MW to M conversion? Just wondering what's involved.

Dan

Those swedes probably speak better english than any of us....except perhaps for Kerry.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Another cut-n-paste from BangShift. Hope it's interesting.

A little bit new on the Mutt project. I've mentioned that I'm also on a Mercedes forum that Peach Parts sponsors and one of the guys mentioned that he was pulling a good '85 OM617 (the 5 cylinder 3 liter engine) from a car with a good body to replace it with one from his much-loved '85 that has bad floors. Anyhow, he had run compression, oil pressure, etc. and everything was fine. We hit on a price and he finally got it out so Kingsford and I drove up to Virginia and picked it up this weekend. Now I have a backup in case the current engine splatters itself all over the track - though I don't think that's likely.

I picked up a new HF engine stand and Dick (the guy with the Volvo) gave me a hand last night and we got it mounted. The PO left the intermediate plate on the engine so it was a LOT easier to mount on the stand - otherwise you're left with a very small bolt pattern to fit the stand arms in. I'm chewing on a method to mount the engine off the side mount bolt holes so there's full access to the bottom and it's easier to work with the intermediate plate off - I'll keep you posted.

There's some kind of special muck that Mercedes Diesels pick up over the years and I didn't see any purpose in storing the engine with this crud on it. It's the kind of stuff that if you backed into it in the shop, whatever you're wearing is marked for life (instant shop clothes). So today's project was to hose this pig down. First I scraped it, then washed it with spray Gunk followed with the pressure washer, let it dry a bit, then Easy-Off, let that sit, scrub as much as possible with a parts brush, then the pressure washer again, and let the mess dry.

After all that it was fairly clean and here's the pics to prove it:

One side:




'Tother side:




And finally, the front 'tother side:




If you don't understand the amount of cleaning that's gone on you haven't messed with an old Mercedes Diesel. I don't know why they make the goop they make - and it generally isn't that there's all that much of it - but it's some nasty crap!

I don't have any immediate use for this - just a back up. I does have the oil cooler attached so if I feel the need I have it but so far the existing engine is running plenty cool.

I think I'll make a box and screw it to the base of the engine stand so I can stash all of the extra stuff I got with this engine. I have a spare set of injector lines (good to have), the oil cooler (It takes up real estate just hanging off the front of the engine) and other bits like that. Seems like a good idea to keep all of that with the engine.

Dan

I've heard that hanging the engine by the aluminum intermediate plate is not a safe thing. Now having said that, I had mine on an engine stand hanging from the plate....always felt a little uneasy, so much so that I hung it from a hoist anytime I was working on it. I think that if I had it on there for an extended period I'd rig a support from the stand to the pan to take some weight off and minimize some of the cantilever.

Never heard of a failure, but I'd hate for you to be the first....just sayin'

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

That's another reason I thought of the side mount. I'll keep you posted. And thanks for your concern.

Dan

Side mount working great.

Back to work on Mutt, getting the ol' boy ready for the track. Today wasn't pic-worthy but was essential. I'd tried to find more HP by retarding the cam timing but I didn't go any faster so I think we can call that a failed experiment. Goran suggested I put the cam back to stock, at least to start so that was today's job. I've gotten better at this than I'd like to be but I do know what to pull and how to do it. As I'm sure most of you know, cam timing on these is changed by using offset Woodruff keys which are available in several steps and I was able to get a "0" key (stock) from the dealer for pretty cheap by Mercedes standards. Their parts guys seem to take pity on me and treat me decently.

Anyhow, that's done so now I can set the timing as/per Goran's suggestion and start the Super Pump installation tomorrow. There will be a fair amount of fabrication as all of the linkages and fuel fittings are different except for the injector lines. But THAT'S the fun part!

Dan

Another cut-n-paste from BangShift. Enjoy!

Actual work was accomplished!

What it looked like before today's attack. (This is actually the spare engine as I forgot to take a "before" pic.)



And now the side of Mutt's current engine minus the stuff that had to come out for the installation. Note that the engine mount, oil filter assembly, and injection pump are all gone. The IP will not pull back far enough to remove it with the oil filter assy. in place and my homebrew motor mount hits one of the fasteners that holds the IP together so I'll have to do a little modification - it also stops the IP from sliding out.



The oil filter assy. and IP on the welding bench. Note the drive end of the IP.



Much happiness to find that the IP alignment (note alignment marks) was spot on as it came out of the hole. I set the engine to the preferred 23* BTDC by eyeballing the dampner and it was just as it should be. This will make the installation of the Super Pump much easier and the installer will feel better about the whole deal.



Hopefully I'll get back on this tomorrow and slide the Super Pump in the hole. Mucho HP, as the say in Sweden (don't they?).

Dan

Another sexy photo. It's coming back together. The oil filter base was a stinker to get back in place but my neighbor and I got 'er done.

As you can see, the SuperPump and the oil filter assembly are back where they belong.

Dan

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