Boy front end rebuilds are a pain.... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #1 03-03-2013, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alanclrk

I used a pitman puller with a 27" opening. Worked fine on the drivers side, the passenger side I broke one on it using more force than it was designed to have. That believe pitman puller has been used by others on this site.

As I thought.............improper procedure.

The pullers are not designed to impart sufficient force to break the joint (despite all the claims that you might have heard on here). I'd estimate that such a joint could easily withstand 10,000 lb. The pullers aren't strong enough for that.

The proper procedure is to set the puller onto the joint and tighten with moderate force............not enough to deform the puller. About 2000 lb. is more than sufficient (although I understand you cannot measure it).

While the joint is in compression, you sharply hit the side of the tapered joint. A heavy piece of steel or cast iron behind the joint which serves as the anvil will greatly assist. The action deforms the hole in the joint just enough to have it pop out due to the 2000 lb. compressive force from the "puller". Be sure to understand that you must have a rigid backing for the hammer blow to provide the necessary instantaneous force necessary to deform the hole. Smacking the hell out of it while it's swinging from the upper control arm isn't going to get the job done.

Since you now have it off the vehicle, use a rigid cement block with a piece of steel on top for the anvil. The joint will pop out with one or two blows after the puller is setup on it.

And, no...........you do not use a torch............and you do not hit the nut. You hit the side of the joint to momentarily deform the shape of the hole.

Diesel911 · #2 03-04-2013, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

As I thought.............improper procedure.

The pullers are not designed to impart sufficient force to break the joint (despite all the claims that you might have heard on here). I'd estimate that such a joint could easily withstand 10,000 lb. The pullers aren't strong enough for that.

The proper procedure is to set the puller onto the joint and tighten with moderate force............not enough to deform the puller. About 2000 lb. is more than sufficient (although I understand you cannot measure it).

While the joint is in compression, you sharply hit the side of the tapered joint. A heavy piece of steel or cast iron behind the joint which serves as the anvil will greatly assist. The action deforms the hole in the joint just enough to have it pop out due to the 2000 lb. compressive force from the "puller". Be sure to understand that you must have a rigid backing for the hammer blow to provide the necessary instantaneous force necessary to deform the hole. Smacking the hell out of it while it's swinging from the upper control arm isn't going to get the job done.

Since you now have it off the vehicle, use a rigid cement block with a piece of steel on top for the anvil. The joint will pop out with one or two blows after the puller is setup on it.

And, no...........you do not use a torch............and you do not hit the nut. You hit the side of the joint to momentarily deform the shape of the hole.

If you look at the design of the Rear Mercedes Ball Joint Remover Tool you see they did not design the Tool so that the sides of the Arm could be struck.
So the expectation was that the Tool all bay itself would be able to press the Joint out of the Lower Control Arm. (See Pic.)

I often done Myself and seen other strike the Shaft end of a Puller on the Nut where you tighten it had have that pop loose what is being pulled.

Brian Carlton · #3 03-06-2013, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

If you look at the design of the Rear Mercedes Ball Joint Remover Tool you see they did not design the Tool so that the sides of the Arm could be struck.
So the expectation was that the Tool all bay itself would be able to press the Joint out of the Lower Control Arm. (See Pic.)

I often done Myself and seen other strike the Shaft end of a Puller on the Nut where you tighten it had have that pop loose what is being pulled.

Well, now we have an issue with the terminology.

When the OP stated that "the upper ball joint is frozen but the lower came out without too much effort", my determination was that he could not separate the UCA from the ball joint. This process would utilize the method that I described above.

If this was not the situation and the OP was attempting to remove the ball joint from the spindle, none of my previous advice would have been applicable and hammering on the side of the joint wouldn't accomplish a damn thing because it's not a tapered joint.

The only method to remove and install the lower ball joint is FORCE......and a lot of it. This is best done with a hydraulic press, however the style noted in your post can possibly be successful, but I wouldn't count on it.