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  #1  
Old 03-11-2013, 10:57 PM
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1985 300SD - reliable engine ?

The engine in a 85 300SD is good for how many miles ?

What are the weak points / critical repair issues angine primarily and whole car ?

( I am assuming timing chain and vacuum pump like the 602 ) anything else ?

thank you

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  #2  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:20 PM
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OM617 (the engine in your car) was used is all the 300TD, 300D, 300D turbo and 300SD sedans and wagons from 1977-1985. They are generally reliably driver without a rebuild up to at least 400,000km with many easily exceeding that amount. It really all depends on maintenance. Regular oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. The vacuum pump isn't as big an issue as it with the om60X engines. Timing chain should be replaced when it exceeds its stretch limit which can be measured. basically the statement that these cars will go for a million miles with no maintenance is false. However with some care and attention they can go for a long while.

As for weak pints there are really no specific parts that always fail. Injectors are often neglected, as well are valve adjustments, and glow plugs burn out, but those are common to many engines. As for the car as a whole the climate control system is a weak spot and can be a real pain to get functioning correctly, also motor mounts are a common failure point.
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2013, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
OM617 (the engine in your car) was used is all the 300TD, 300D, 300D turbo and 300SD sedans and wagons from 1977-1985. They are generally reliably driver without a rebuild up to at least 400,000km with many easily exceeding that amount. It really all depends on maintenance. Regular oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. The vacuum pump isn't as big an issue as it with the om60X engines. Timing chain should be replaced when it exceeds its stretch limit which can be measured. basically the statement that these cars will go for a million miles with no maintenance is false. However with some care and attention they can go for a long while.

As for weak pints there are really no specific parts that always fail. Injectors are often neglected, as well are valve adjustments, and glow plugs burn out, but those are common to many engines. As for the car as a whole the climate control system is a weak spot and can be a real pain to get functioning correctly, also motor mounts are a common failure point.
Thank you, I was under the impression that these engines might be good for 400,000 miles not km.. as it has 240k miles on it now that is equal to 400K km...hmmm pretty well used up at that I suppose.

thanks
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:19 AM
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There's a guy on here who ran an OM617 to 1.3 million miles before a rebuild. That is more than you should expect in normal use. Mine is up to 325,000 miles on the original engine and starts the same at 20F as at 80F. A compression test will give you a good idea what's left in your individual engine.
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  #5  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:12 AM
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On the turbo version often you need a head gasket at around 275 to 300,000 miles. At that time an examination of the valves for wear and a valve job is a good idea. At that mileage if reasonable care has been given the bottom end should show minimal wear.
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
On the turbo version often you need a head gasket at around 275 to 300,000 miles. At that time an examination of the valves for wear and a valve job is a good idea. At that mileage if reasonable care has been given the bottom end should show minimal wear.
Thanks,

Not all 85 617 motors are turbocharged ?
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  #7  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_ View Post
Thanks,

Not all 85 617 motors are turbocharged ?
In North America only the turbocharged OM617 was sold in 1985, but MB made the non-turbo OM617 for the Euro and other markets up to 1985. Some of these might have ended up in North America through personal imports.
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_ View Post
Thanks,

Not all 85 617 motors are turbocharged ?
correct, the euro version was still available in N/A in 85. all US 300 series were turbo in 85.

as for the timing chain and vacuum pump. the pump can fail exactly like the 60x series pump does... mine did.
INSPECT IT!!!
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
as for the timing chain and vacuum pump. the pump can fail exactly like the 60x series pump does... mine did.
INSPECT IT!!!
At 250K, your "inspection" is going to find worn components. Since it went 250K and didn't grenade, consider yourself lucky and replace it or find all the components to properly rebuild it.
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2013, 07:05 PM
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Thankyou very much
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_ View Post
The engine in a 85 300SD is good for how many miles ?

What are the weak points / critical repair issues angine primarily and whole car ?

( I am assuming timing chain and vacuum pump like the 602 ) anything else ?

thank you
It is 28 years old with 240 000 miles, nothing is reliable If you want reliable buy a new Japanese with a warranty!

I think by the time you have 100 000 miles you can't gauge much on the miles... there are so many different variables that come in through the middle, like maintenance or driving conditions. Or even failures of the odometer, maybe it reads 240 000 but hasn't counted a foot in the past 10 years of driving. or maybe it counts 10 000 miles for every 10 (it happens...)
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:03 PM
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I agree with the idea that cars this old with as many miles as we see, you can't judge the car based on the number of miles it has. If a million mile engine has good compression and shows no abnormal signs, I would buy it in a heartbeat. The OM617 crowd averages at least 250K miles. The chassis needs more work than the engine normally does. If the chassis is rust free and has few major issues, I would advise buying the car at a reasonable price. If the engine was severely neglected, you you can find an OM617 at PNP for $250 all day long. At least in my area. I have never seen a chassis with an OM617 where the engine has been pulled in any of the 6 junk yards I visit. Why? Well, it's pretty rare that you need to completely replace an OM617.

There are two tests that I would use to initially evaluate an OM617 engine before purchasing it. #1: How well it starts. #2: The amount of blow-by the engine has.

#1 can vary depending on the glow plug system. None the less, an experienced observer can feel the amount of compression the engine has based on the speed it turns over at and sound/feel of the engine as it turns.

#2 If the oil cap can be loosened and balanced on the valve cover while the engine is running at operating temp, I'd buy it.

Those are the two initial tests I performed on my car before I bought it. It has been my daily driver for over a year now and I have not been stranded once because of any mechanical issue. Flat tires are another story but that was my fault. LOL
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1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:19 PM
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My oil cap sits nicely and vibrates a bit at operating temp, as long as it's at idle. Is that what you mean? When I rev it up a bit, the cap dances around, but not really too much. (215,000 miles).........
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'85 300 TD wagon. Euro spec. 215,000 miles, real beater (for now). '59 f350 with cummins 6at, 54 gmc flatbed with cummins 6at, '92 f350 service truck with 7.3 NA IDI and 5 spd man tran, Grumman Aluminum stepvan with 6.2 (cabinet hauler) I like diesels.....
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Smokey View Post
My oil cap sits nicely and vibrates a bit at operating temp, as long as it's at idle. Is that what you mean? When I rev it up a bit, the cap dances around, but not really too much. (215,000 miles).........
Compensating for engine vibration, it should not fly off or fall off on its own. I'm not saying that the cap should remain completely steady. It may vibrate with the engine but it should not be flopping all around because the blow by is pushing it off the valve cover. If you see a ton of vapor coming out from under the cap, it may be a concern.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2013, 11:51 PM
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Not much vapor. I have seen mention of a test to fill a garbage bag with blow-by. As in, if it fills a 32 gallon trash bag in so many minutes, time to worry. Don't think I'm there yet. Starts really well. I'm determined not to worry this time. It's a thousand dollar car I bought from a neighbor on a whim and I'm not gonna worry about anything but the brakes, oh and the timing chain, and the beginning of rust in the wheel wells, and............

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'85 300 TD wagon. Euro spec. 215,000 miles, real beater (for now). '59 f350 with cummins 6at, 54 gmc flatbed with cummins 6at, '92 f350 service truck with 7.3 NA IDI and 5 spd man tran, Grumman Aluminum stepvan with 6.2 (cabinet hauler) I like diesels.....
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