Hi all,

I am replacing 4 Beru plugs with Bosch plugs.

As seen in the photo, the Beru plugs I removed have the metal "cap" on the stem, which I imagine assists in conducting the current from one plug to the next.

The Bosch Plug also has a "cap" but it is smaller in height and slightly smaller in diameter.

I imagine the new Bosch glow plugs will work as long as the current is going from one plug to another.

Any thoughts? Anyone else out there replace the Beru with these Bosch glow plugs?

Thanks in advance,

Dwayne

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I have had no difficulties with Bosch GPs in my 68 220D. They wired up easily and have worked without a hitch since (about a year so far). I bet either brand will be fine.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

My concern was the smaller "cap" I described above, thanks for your reply.

Is there a technical reason why the Bosch Adapter Pencil Glow Plugs could not be used?

It looks like the Beru Glow Plugs would keep the Zig Zag Resistance Wires further away from the Block.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The resistance wires tend to make contact with the engine more easily if you use Bosch loop plugs. Beru is a better quality.

A technical reason for not using pencil type plugs is that they take up less space in the pre chamber, thereby reducing compression a little bit.

I have found Beru plugs to be of generally higher quality and they seem to last quite a bit longer.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Thanks for all of the replays.

I installed the Bosch plugs in the car, no noticeable difference.
Based on everyone's advise I may do the conversion to the pencil type plugs on the next go-round. One project at a time.

I'm planning a valve adjustment in the next few days, my first one in a long time.

Thanks again, Dwayne

I was thinking there was some electrical issue or some People just like having everything original.

Since the Pencil Glow Plugs get hotter and that faster; I don't think the little loss of compression is an issue during starting; but, I guess it would be while the Engine is running.

I have always wondered why they left so much dead space when they designed the Adapter Plugs.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I was of the "I want it original" school of thought until this winter which also happens to be the first northern winter for my 240D. The first time I started the car after the upgrade it was like starting a gasser

Okay, so I feel like a nitwit regarding my advice above. When I wrote that I had had no troubles with bosch GPs, it was accurate. But now, not so much.

My car has been running hot during high load conditions. So to test if changes that I am making (like cleaning the radiator) are making any difference, I have been running the car occasionally to pretty high temps (230F). It has not over heated/boiled over, but it has been very hot.

So after one of these runs, it turns out that 2 of my bosch glow plugs now longer work. The filament loop is fine, but somewhere inside the plug itself, there is an open circuit. I guess they got sufficiently hot that I must have melted some internal connector. Not sure if it is relevant, but these Bosch plugs were made in India. I have an unused Bosch plug to compare with, and it is very clear that cylinder 2 and cylinder 4's GPs no longer are functional.

So I just ordered up some Beru's, and we will see if I have better luck. I may need to get my injectors serviced because I guess old injectors cause cause GP failure, but at this point, it is one step at a time. Hope your Bosch's work out well for you.

That is what I get for taking my car to 80 mph. Take about crazy!

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Loop-style glow plugs don't like high combustion temperature, bad injectors or incorrect injection timing. 230F is a bit high, even for running at 80 mph. Check your cooling system too.

Water boils at 212 degrees F. 230 degrees F is bad for the Engine.

You need to check your temp with another Thermometer to verify what the temp really is. Do an Google Images Search for Candy or Meat Thermometer. The Glass ones are used to be around $6 at Target, Walmart and similar Stores.

If you want something that holds up better they have Digital ones.

I have one of those remote Infared Thermometers but it can be as much as 10 degrees off.

You could also pull the Thermostat out and test it to see if it is opening all the way at the temp it is supposed to.
Suspend the Thermostat in a Pot of Water with a Teaspoon of Salt in the Water. Heat the Water up on the Stove with that Thermometer also suspended in the Water and watch the temp when the thermostat starts to open and what temp it it fully open at.

As the Water Cools you can watch to see the Thermostats action as it closes.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Coolant boils at approx. 120 degrees C (248F), under pressure of the cooling system this temperature is increased even more.

230F isn't necessarely damaging to the engine, the red zone starts at 120 degrees C (248F).

Thanks guys for the suggestions. Not to hijack this thread with my own problems, but I have been working on the running hot issue, one step at a time:
Thermostat confusion! EPC and FSM conflict

I agree I need to verify my temperature gauge is correct, but I don't fully understand the method. If I use an immersion thermometer (like a candy thermometer), where do I put it? Wouldn't opening the radiator cap be a disaster when the car is warm? Even at normal operating temp (185F for my car), I am hesitant to open the cooling system.

Could anyone direct me to where the temperature "sender" is on my car? According to EPC, my car has one part which both measures the T and indicates the T. In other words, the measurement device, the wire inbetween, and the indicator gauge at the dash are all one part. But I cannot find the actual measurement device. I was thinking of removing it from the engine (or whereever it is), and cross checking it against a candy thermometer in a pot of really hot water that I carried out to the car.

I do have a new thermostat on the way, and will install it soon and report back. I am also bending lots of fins on my radiator to help make them straight. It was very full of bugs and small rocks. This may be a bit extreme, but I have also removed one of the horns that sits right in front of the radiator. And I took off the secondary electric fan which sat in front of the radiator, because I imagine it might impede air flow at highway speeds (the electric fan motor is several inches across, so parts of the radiator don't get clean air with it installed). I haven't had a chance to test these changes, because I am waiting on the new GPs.

My radiator is old, so that may be a future change. But the old 220D radiators are hideously expensive. It doesn't have an oil cooler (just a tranny fluid cooler), which I guess is rare (???). And perhaps a new fan clutch is in my future as well.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

__________________
1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).