Threads of wheel hub flange damaged- where to get 'thread chaser' - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

benedict · #1 03-19-2013, 08:22 AM

Hi,

Previous owner drove with the spare 'steel' wheel after a flat tire but used wheel studs (longer) for alloy wheels.

He had the dealer replace the emergency brake components as they got torn apart from the intruding stud(s) but the hub flange threads were never corrected. It is difficult to get the studs in and out and makes a mess of the stud threads, even new ones.

I'm reminded every time I rotate the tires which was today.Will a thread chaser be the best tool to clean the threads as oppose to a die? And if so, where might I find one?

I think the studs are an M12 with a 1.5 pitch from memory but happy to be corrected. Thank you.

Diesel911 · #2 03-19-2013, 08:39 AM

When you find the size Sears or PepBoys might have a Tap.

Once you tap out the Holes check to be sure there is enough threads left!

Also they are Wheel (Lug) Bolts.

LNGfish · #3 03-19-2013, 08:48 AM

Hi,

You need a Tap.

Take a good bolt to a Carquest or NAPA and see if they can match up the Tap you need.

connerm · #4 03-19-2013, 09:13 AM

Taps cut and remove material and are good for new work. Chasers realign material and clean out gunk and are good for repairs. These are two very different tools.

vstech · #5 03-19-2013, 10:39 AM

I'm racking my brain trying to understand how the longer bolts damaged your threads.
were they aftermarket bolts? do your long bolts have a large shank under the threads that damaged the hub?
either way, I'd go to a salvage yard, and pull a hub from another car, and just be done with it. a chase or tap will never get the threads back the way they were. you're better off just starting with fresh. try to snag some correct lug bolts while you are in there.

and I think the bolts are M12 1.25 from memory...

83w126 · #6 03-19-2013, 12:56 PM

I think with something that holds the wheels on your car, its time to just get a new (used) one with good threads. It's not uncommon to see a w210 in the cheap junkyards now in my area, so maybe it will be the same there too.

qwerty · #7 03-19-2013, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

...where might I find one?

Some parts stores provide free loaner tools. Some have a thread restoration set in their loaner inventory.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Thread-restorer-set/_/N-264e?itemIdentifier=391372_0_0_

Diesel911 · #8 03-19-2013, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'm racking my brain trying to understand how the longer bolts damaged your threads.
were they aftermarket bolts? do your long bolts have a large shank under the threads that damaged the hub?
either way, I'd go to a salvage yard, and pull a hub from another car, and just be done with it. a chase or tap will never get the threads back the way they were. you're better off just starting with fresh. try to snag some correct lug bolts while you are in there.

and I think the bolts are M12 1.25 from memory...

This has happend to several Members over the last 5 years. The longer Wheel Boots hit stuff and their threads get buggerd up. When you back them out the buggered Bolt threads mess with the Hub threads.

Diesel911 · #9 03-19-2013, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by connerm

Taps cut and remove material and are good for new work. Chasers realign material and clean out gunk and are good for repairs. These are two very different tools.

NAPA might sell single Chasers.

My though on it is that the Holes were originally Tapped to begin with and therefore had that thread geometry to begin with. I am not sure mashing the damaged metal back into place with a thread Chaser for internal threads makes the repair stronger since the damaged Metal has lost strength.

On Bolts you are better off using a Die Nut than a threading Die because Bolts have rolled on threads and the webs at the bottom of the threads are more rounded. If you run a threading die over those it often cuts out the rounded web on the Bolt and that is supposed to change the strength a little.

In My own case I use what I have and what I have are Taps and Dies. I have a few small Die Nuts; somewhere.
A more interesting problem is that different Companies Taps and Dies do not cut exactly the same.

benedict · #10 03-19-2013, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I'm racking my brain trying to understand how the longer bolts damaged your threads.
were they aftermarket bolts? do your long bolts have a large shank under the threads that damaged the hub?
either way, I'd go to a salvage yard, and pull a hub from another car, and just be done with it. a chase or tap will never get the threads back the way they were. you're better off just starting with fresh. try to snag some correct lug bolts while you are in there.

and I think the bolts are M12 1.25 from memory...

Thanks for your response. I’m not exactly sure what he did but if the lug bolts were too long then it could have damaged the ends of the threads from the shank (dead area) of the bolt. Or maybe the wheel was wobbling about pretty bad and jolted the threads

I'd like to try and avoid replacing the hub if it is anything like replacing the W123/W126’s hubs but it may be my best option. Is it the same setup to remove and install as the W123/W126’s? I couldn't find anything on W124 when I did a search.

benedict · #11 03-19-2013, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Also they are Wheel (Lug) Bolts.

Thanks for clarifying.

vstech · #12 03-19-2013, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

This has happend to several Members over the last 5 years. The longer Wheel Boots hit stuff and their threads get buggerd up. When you back them out the buggered Bolt threads mess with the Hub threads.

this makes sense.

Diesel911 · #13 03-19-2013, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

Thanks for your response. I’m not exactly sure what he did but if the lug bolts were too long then it could have damaged the ends of the threads from the shank (dead area) of the bolt. Or maybe the wheel was wobbling about pretty bad and jolted the threads

I'd like to try and avoid replacing the hub if it is anything like replacing the W123/W126’s hubs but it may be my best option. Is it the same setup to remove and install as the W123/W126’s? I couldn't find anything on W124 when I did a search.

Removing the Hub from W123 using a reversed Brake Rotor and beating it out damages the Bearings.

I am not sure if that would happen if you removed the Hub on your Year and Model.
I has been over 4 years now since I replaced a cracked Rear Trailing Arm with a used on with no issues concerning the Bearings and of course it came completly assembled including the Hub. That could be a round about way to get another Hub.

If there is enough metal around the Bolt Holes on the Hub Helicoils could be used to re-thread the Holes. However, drilling the Hole straight in can be an issue as well as indexing the Holes properly.