My journey looking for the perfect Benz has concluded, and the lucky winner is the w126 300sd (1981 - 1985).

For me, it is the best blend of comfort, economy, looks, and practicality. I hope to use this car throughout my university years, so for the next 7 or so years, I hope it takes me wherever I want to go in style, and with minimal expense.

Anyway, on to the important part of the post. I've begun actually looking at specific cars. I have a few months to choose the one I want, so there is no rush, other then the one caused by my own impatience. Since I have all this time, i want to make sure I get the perfect car. Below are all the things I've learned from the archives that I should look for in the car. I want you veterans to let me know if I missed something important, or added something that really doesnt matter. Thanks. Btw, the price range is around 5k CDN, so 3K USD. Anything else you feel I should know, feel free to say it.

Things to check(no particular order):

-Compression check. (to verify oil changes etc)

-Rust beneath the floor mats and bottom edge of doors

-Play in steering(to see if new box needed)

-Tire condition(to see if tie rods etc are bad)

-Door alignment

-Power windows/seats

-Leaks on bottom half of engine

-Rear window delamination

-Records to show oil changes and valve adjustments(these likely wont exist)

-Smooth tranny

-No rust and good paint

-And this: "check to see if the engine has a sizable amount of blowby. This is easily accomplished. There is a rubber hose that runs from the valve cover to the air cleaner assembly. Pull this hose off of the air cleaner while the engine is running and check for an excess of oil and combustion gasses. If you witness little oil and exhaust you should be in good shape. "

Most of these I can check with the help of my dad, but I'm going to take it to a mechanic anyway to make sure all is well.

Thanks guys.

Pretty comprehensive list. I can think of a few more:

Make sure the Cruise Control works. There are two parts that make this work; each is about $300US.

Verify Climate Control operation in all modes. Repairs can run up to $2000US for the evaporator.

This stuff can all be fixed, but it does make for good negotiating $$$.

Hope this helps, Bob

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Bob Roe
Lehigh Valley PA USA
1973 Olds 88, 1972 MB 280SE, 1978 Datsun 280Z, 1971 Ford T-Bird, 1972 Olds 88, 1983 Nissan Sentra, 1985 Sentra, 1973 230.6, 1990 Acura Integra, 1991 Volvo 940GLE wagon, 1983 300SD, 1984 300SD, 1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon, 2002 Mountaineer, 1991 300TE wagon, 2008 Murano, 2007 R320CDI 4Matic 52K, some Hyundai, 2008 BMW 535xi wagon, all gone... currently
2007 Honda Odyssey Touring, 2014 E350 4matic

Greetings,

I think you have made a wise choice looking for a 300SD. I own a '84 model and have enjoyed it since day one. It handles nicer than the 123 model with it's broader stance and truely is a silent runner going down the road. Not saying I haven't fixed a few petty items on this car since I got it back several months ago. Things like a window motor and rear tail light lens and a window switch. All of these items can be bought from recyclers at a very good price and with a total of $2000.00 paid for the car in a rust free condition I feel I got a great deal on a car that really does perform. As mentioned before, I would check out the climate control system, steering system, suspension in general, overall interior condition and all windows and options. These are all bargaining items in order to lower your final price, and most are cheaply repaired if you do them yourself. To check excessive blowby of the engine, simply remove the oil fill cap on the valve cover while the engine is running and see how much puffing smoke comes back at you. Very little and all is fine, slight puffing and it will still outlast any new American car, heavy puffing and chances are good it will most likely still see another 60,000 miles or more before major work will need to be done. All of this is in line with how well the engine starts, idles and actually runs out on the road.

Good Luck,

Charles

__________________
"Tell me and I will listen, Teach me and I will learn, Show me and I will accomplish, Involve me and I will succeed."
'84 300SD 256,000 Gold on Brown (Mileage Award)
'86 300E 246,000 Blue on Tan

Thanks guys.

I'll make sure to check for cruise as well. Of all the examples I've looked at, not one has had working A/C. Due to the fairly cold climate, I guess no one bothers fixing it once it goes out. My Bonneville AC died over a year ago, and I've lived fine without it, so I'll be glad to get a car w/o AC and get a few hundred off the price for it.

Thanks for the blowby checking tips, can you explain to me what exactly it is? What causes it, etc. I'm fairly new to this stuff.

make sure the rear ride height looks normal, if it's not it's not a huge deal but it's a pain. Also make sure the electric door locks work, because if the pump is dead thats 250 bucks for a new electric vacuum pump. Other than that and the things mentioned you should be set!
Ryan

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

Trelinski,

Blow-by is high pressure gas from the combustion event on the power stroke, that makes its way past the piston ring/cylinder wall seal. When the car is relatively new and in good condition, there is little leakage past the piston rings and little or no apparent blow-by. As the car ages, depending on things like oil changes (frequent is better) and operating temperatures (running hot or overheating is bad), this seal can degrade faster or more slowly.

Pulling the oil fill cap off with the engine running at night, and shining a flash light across the openning has helped me see the blow-by better. If it is readily apparent without a light, or in daylight, and resists your effort to put the cap back on, the car is getting old. If the evidence of blow-by is not apparent or hard to detect, the car is in good shape.

Congratulations on the progress you have made in your selection process and good luck finding a jewel of the W126 model line! Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

On the 300SD's I believe they use the std Coil/Shock setup. If the ride height doesn't look right it could mean the Shocks and/or the Springs are warn out. Also, in the door locks don't work doesn't mean the pump is dead, it could be as simple as a loose vacuum tube. Now if ALL the vacuum related stuff didn't work then you'd be looking at a big problem, but if jsut one or 2 things don't work then you'll be alright.

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2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/119226-1982-300d-sale.html#post852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

Thanks again guys, all your responses are appreciated.

The explanation of blowby was great, I understand exactly what it is now.

I hope the research pays off and I get exactly what i want. When I do, I'll post pics immediately.

OT: how do you guys like your 3.2TL? my dad was gonna get the CL s-type before he got his Bimmer 5-er
Ryan

__________________
83 300SD.......sold
96 integra SE....sold
99 a4 quattro....sold
2001 IS300.......sold
2002 330i.........current.
2004 highlander limited....current.

My dad doesnt let me take it out on my own for some reason, but Ive driven it a few times when we went somewhere.

I don't have much driving experience, but this thing handles amazing, it holds the road through really hard corners, and accelerates like mad. Inside it has a really nice feel, like you're sitting in a cockpit, not a normal cabin. Fast too, even our non-s with only 225 hp. Could use rear-drive though.

Had it since september, and put just over 10,000 km on it, no maintenance yet to speak of(except for oil), but thats typical for new japanese cars.

The S was better, but my dad decided the suspension was to firm for him. Try as I may, i couldnt convince him otherwise.

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1984 300SD. 200k miles, 1 owner. I saw and drove it today; it drives ok.

Here is what I saw that it needs:
- pulls to right; owner says mechanic told him it needs a new ball joint (apparently this is the only work needed to pass safety inspection)
- climate control and radio stopped working recently (owner will fix before selling)
- air conditioning has leak; freon gone - ouch!
- driver's seat needs to be redone/recovered
- dash top has some cracks
- some fogging (delamination) around sides of back window (3' in only so no big deal)
- power seats work intermittently
- some rust, but not rusted through anywhere (1 corner of sunroof opening, right headlight, around rear/trunk, etc.)
- original paint
- interior needs a good cleaning; looks a bit old and used; actually looks like a normal car would after 18 years
- leather on front seats a bit cracked (figures given age)
- tires are ok, but nothing great
- 1 rim has a bit of a dent, but seems ok still
- small hole on 1 pipe at muffler exit
- partial service records; I should be able to find out where it was serviced.
- engine looks ok, but could use a good cleaning

I am planning on having a garage (not MB, but a place that sells/services them) check it over for mechanical soundness, especially the suspension, engine, turbo, transmission. I assume these items will be ok (if not, I'm gonna pass on it, especially since I don't really need this car; it's just another extravagance).

I should be able to get it for $2500 US, maybe a bit less. How much (roughly) would I need to spend to get it back into proper condition?
Any idea on the costs for the dash, new seat, power seat repair, AC, rust repair?

Thanks to all,
...karl

Karl, You're in my area!

Can you give me the name of the shop that will check it out for you? I dont know any places at all, so I'll take what I can get. Thanks.

BTW,

Seats are expensive, you'd likely have to find em at a Euro cars wreckers, so the prices can vary. AC repair is usually around 2000 USD, I dont think AC is necessary in our area. As for the dash, there are many covers available for pretty low prices, if you are to actually repair instead of cover up, then I'm not sure.

Trelinski:
Yup. Just west of you.

The place I know of is Forli Motors. 134 Parliament Street (at Richmond). First light west of DVP from Richmond Street exit.
416-364-8638

Lou says he's been there for decades (4 I think). He sells used MB and services MB also.
He buys old MB, fixes them up and then sells them. He says his prices reflect what he had to pay for the car and what he had to do to it, not so much their market value.
He has a black 82 300D ($5500 CDN), light blue 83 300SD ($6k CDN) and black 85 300SD ($7500 CDN) on the lot right now. Or how about a 6.9 for $17k?
The 300D's seats are gone, but otherwise it looks ok. Both 300SDs look ok. 250k-290k kms on odos. He says mechanicals are ok.

The 300SD I found is in Etobicoke. If I decide not to get it, I'll let you know.

...karl

Thanks, this will help me a lot, now I know of a trustable place to get my car checked out.

His prices are a little more than what I want to pay up front, but when I take my trip into the city next week, I'll be sure to stop by his place and take a look.

BTW, I found most of my cars on autotrader.ca, you may want to check it out if you havent already.

My cruise control didn't work when I bought the car('84 300sd) last June. But we plan on a trip next month, and as tired as my leg gets holding down the stiff throttle these diesels seem to have, I decided to have it fixed. Took the repair shop (Conaway Motors in Everett, Wash.) a couple days to track down the problem. Turned out to be a burnt out amplifier. Apparently someone had worked on it in the past and screwed up. The mechanic finally took the cover off the wire connector and found a wire inside re-connected to the wrong pin, which resulted in burning out the controller. Cost about 105$ for a used one, plus about $180.00 labor for all the time spent trying to find the source. Works sweet now.
Good choice! I love my 300sd. I've owned two old 1968 220D's. Nice cars, but really, really slooooowwwww.

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past MB rides:
'68 220D
'68 220D(another one)
'67 230
'84 SD
Current rides:
'06 Lexus RX330
'93 Ford F-250
'96 Corvette
'99 Polaris 700 RMK sled
2011 Polaris Assault
'86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper)