Hi there, I'm URGENTLY in need of some advice. When I try to key the starter motor, absolutely nothing happens. Good battery, no click at all, following normal gp and dash light behavior.

So, I was very happy to find loose solenoid cables, but tightening them is a real puzzle. There are two 17 mm nuts visible. Both will move with minimal torque, but THE STUD / BOLT? INSIDE MOVES AS WELL. SO DOES A SECOND, SLIMMER NUT ON THE REAR SIDE OF THE TWO EYE TERMINALS. Can someone explain what this configuration is and how I should deal with tightening it up. I don't see how I can get any purchase on the inner nut, esp. with access so poor.

Also, playing with the shifter hasn't made any difference.

Thanks!!

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1980 300TD

If you are referring to the positive battery cable attachment to the solenoid, a loose stud here won't cause any immediate problems. Long term it might wear the plastic but I've never seen that occur on any brand.

If the motor side of the solenoid is loose, it might cause a no crank due to the pull in side of the solenoid being attached here.

The other side of the stud looks like a bolt head and forms the solenoid contact. A movable disc attached to the solenoid bridges the two when you crank.

Be sure to support the terminal / cable before removing / tightening the outer nut to prevent breaking the plastic housing. After the cable has been removed, tighten the inner nut to a low torque.

Have you tried jumping terminal 1 and 3 in the plastic junction box on top of the inner fender in front of the battery?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Hi Kerry:

I saw your post about jumping in another thread; I'd be all for that, but in my car (80 300td) the junction box either doesn't exist or is behind the firewall. Should I go looking for it?

Do you agree that wiggly terminals on the solenoid are a red herring /non-issue (the wiggle being behind back nut).

Thanks for the help!

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1980 300TD

Loose solenoid stud seems problematic to me. Could be broken off inside thus no contact. The closest in nut should tighten in and secure the stud, the other should secure the lead wire to the stud. If the first nut won't pull the stud tight I think you are a no go situation.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Thanks T. That seems sensible, given what I'm seeing here. Will a Home Depot have a slender enough wrench to turn that inner nut, I wonder... anyone know what this tool would be called?

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1980 300TD

very thin wrenches are rare. Sometimes can be found at a bike shop. I usually would remove the outer nut, tighten the inner then install the outer.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

A long-overdue follow-up: The looseness at the solenoid wasn't the problem, although I do now blame it for "disengaged", or "whirring" failed start attempts that I get a little less than half the time.

It was the Neutral safety switch; when I got under the car, I could see that the little cover near the switch housing was open, and perhaps had been all winter. I just traced the wiring and bypassed the switch near the accelerator pedal. I'm going to look for a new unit at the junkyard (more for the reverse lights, which failed some time ago, than for the safety switch).

Thanks again, all of you who weighed in.

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1980 300TD