Be sure to use new flywheel bolts. stay away from URO Chicom parts.

Be sure to use the correct throw out bearing for your transmission. there is a difference between the Iron Box and all Aluminum one piece trans.

I have 16 pages of every swap and clutch bleeding thread I have come across since I have been on the forum in a 8 x 5 yellow tablet. here is a couple that helped me get going.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/88699-auto-manual-transmission-conversion-has-begun.html

this swap Gavin Leslie did is close to me and I was over there a few times during it.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/206755-240d-4-speed-manual-swap-300cd.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/223847-4-speed-conversion-cross-member-secret.html

This should hold you over fro a few days of reading. ;)

Charlie

you can actually reuse the flywheel bolts if the neck diameter is within spec. Each time they are torqued, the neck gets skinnier. The fsm has the measurement tolerances in it. I just did this myself not too long ago, but I am headed to work in two minutes, so I don't have time to look up the measurement. 12 bolts at over $5 a pop is no small chunk of change for a young man.

That is quite a chunk of change for an old man too. :rolleyes:

Should buy stock in FW Bolts. every time I look them up the price goes up.

Charlie

The throwout bearing is this little thing in front of the fork, right? Attachment 111680
and im pretty sure i have the iron box. And what is the proper torque for the FW bolts?

That is the TO bearing.

i can just reuse it from the 240, right? the clutch also looks to be in really good shape. I'm going to use that as well.

Will I need the adapter plate on the back of the motor if i got the iron/aluminium transmission??

If you buy a clutch kit it'll have a new TO bearing. The pilot bearing is cheap and I know is the same between a 616 and 617 - not sure of other interchanges. I'd be sure to replace all bearings as they're a bear to get to once the gearbox is in place (everything has to come back out) and is easy now.

I'd be surprised if you have a steel gearbox but I guess not impossible. Take a magnet to the case and see if it sticks.

Flywheel torque is 30-40Nm or 22-30 lb ft. Torque all the bolts then go an additional 90 to 100 degrees rotation. This is according to the Haynes manual - I have only limited faith in their specs given that their main bearing clearance numbers didn't add up (seemed to be an issue with metric to English conversion). I made a strut to hold the flywheel in place - just a piece of strapping with two holes.

Dan

Dan, all the 4 speeds are steel case with removable bell housing except for the 1983 models. They were the first using the one piece aluminum case, so there are not that many around. As far as the young man doing this swap, I would say use everything that looks in good condition. And don't fret that balance unless you can see an obvious balance mark on the flywheel. Clean up that flywheel really nice and clean, and if you don't see any mark on it, put it on. I would recommend the same for the shortened drive shaft. Shorten it by 4 inches and put it on. It can handle being out of balance a gram or two. You can spend plenty just on parts, forget all that Indy car balancing. These old cars don't need it.

MrUkrainian, here is a set of pages you can really use for your switch over. Here is the main page.

Index to Mercedes EPC Parts Info and Diagrams | Everything Benz

Here is the page that covers your car. It lists common replacement parts but not all parts, but every component assembly on you car down to the last screw is on this page. ENJOY IT!

Mercedes Benz EPC 123.123 Chassis Information | Everything Benz

I don't believe so. My iron box from a '79 240D bolts right up to my '83 turbo OM617.

Interesting. My 4 speed is from an '82 240D and is a one piece all aluminum unit. Maybe there was some transition?

BTW - the trans is LIGHT - as we say here it don't hardly weigh nothin'. We were amazed at how easy it was to lower out of the hole. I haven't put it on a scale but I'd guess it's 40 lbs or so.

Dan

I'm not sure what is meant by adapter plate. There is a 1" thick aluminum plate that bolts to the block, then the bell housing bolts to that. YOu do need it but its the same for stick or automatic. you also need the bell housing.

ON my 84 euro 280e the witness marks were far from obvious. they were so subtle as to be nearly invisible. That fw was balanced with the crank. One of five on conversions for me.

Does anyone know about how much its going to cost to get my driveshaft shortened and balanced, and flywheel?