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When I did mine the driveshaft mods cost about $200.
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Our local guy is willing to make me a complete new shaft for $200-$300 depending on the price of parts. So I'd think shortening a shaft should run maybe half that but that's a guess.
On the flywheel balance - no clue. I do have a thought, though. If you can find someone with an old bubble wheel balancer you could look at the auto flywheel and see if it's neutral balanced then try the manual flywheel and see if it's neutrally balanced. If the both balance the same you're home free. I decided to just bolt mine together and see how the truck drives. No shakey = OK. EDIT: I also solved the mystery of the aluminum case on my manual trans. When I took the car to PnP to get rid of the carcass it turns out that it was an '83, not an '82 as I was told by the seller, a "professional" German repair shop. He also was never able to turn up the title but our PnP was OK with that as it was old enough that the State doesn't much care. Dan |
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Alright, I actually started doing the manual swap. Today, I pulled the transmission and driveshaft off... And now I dont know what to do. Whats next? I am supposed to mark something on the auto flywheel before i take it off? Also, how do I know if my flywheel is neutrally balanced?
Attachment 112443 This is where I'm at now, sorry for the bad picture. haha Attachment 112444 Difference in drive shafts.. Attachment 112445 This auto tranny is a lot heavier then the manual one... haha |
Here is a search I did of FW Balancing.
PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum - Search Results Before you remove the auto FW, see if there is any type of mark on the Crank and FW. If not, you could use a small chisle or punch and mark the crank and FW begore removal. this will give you a reference point. Have the Auto FW checked for balance. then have the Manual FW checked for balance. you will have to have the Manual FW matched exactly as the Auto FW is. Put a Chisle or punch mark on the new FW (Manual) in the same balance point as the Auto one. then mount the Manual FW to the same reference point. I took mine to a Hot Rod Speed shop that had the balancing equipment to check them here in Santa Cruz. The longer Driveline front section of the two should be the 240D drive line? If so, use the 240 front piece, and have it shortened. Don`t have the front section of the 300D lengthened. The rear section of the two should be the same length. Have a Drive Line shop do this for you, be sure to give them both sections. they will give it back to you balanced, and should replace the centering Bushings in the ends. I had them replace the center Support bearing. think the total was $300. Mount the new balanced FW. Torque the Bolts. Install the Pilot Bearing. Install the Clutch Disk and pressure Plate. use the alignment to line up the splines of the Disk with the Pilot Bearing. then tighten the PP Bolts. Place the Release/Throw out bearing in the Bell Housing shaft and the Shift Fork. Install the Transmission, and tighten the bolts. Be sure to Measure twice, and cut once on the Drive Line. It is usually 4 inches that has to be shortened. Did I mention to measure Twice??? That`s enough for tonights lesson.:) Charlie |
Is there any way that I can check for balance myself, without taking it to a shop? Maybe I could bolt up the flywheel and start the engine without the transmission and check for vibrations? Or would that not help at all? haha I'm 16 and on a tight budget..
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Aren't most flywheels neutrally balanced anyways? What is the chance that I dont have one that is? The flywheel came off of a 1979 240d.
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Well that is your choice. Here is my plan A, low cost and easy. Go through all the balance steps and things should be good to go. But to save a lot of hassle, look both those flywheels over really good. Using a magnifying glass is even better, and they have to be clean. If you don't see any outstanding mark or imprint in the steel machined edge of either flywheel, consider it done, put it on and drive it, (and I bet you will like it)! If you see a mark on either wheel, report back and we will revise our thinking and issue my plan B. So, no marks, do it.
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I appreciate the "tight budget" thing, though... I'm 17 and my only source of income is selling parts on eBay, which was very dry in the spring but is now picking up the pace a little bit. |
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I looked over my manual flywheel just to see if there were any outstanding marks, and I didn't find any single mark. I did however find 2 rectangular marks next to each other, and then 2 more 120 degrees from them, and 2 more 120 degrees from those. I dont know if these have anything to do with what we are talking about. Where are the marks usually located on the flywheel? (A picture with a circled area would be great)
Attachment 112456 Here is the manual flywheel Attachment 112457 Those are the little rectangular marks |
Well I can't help you on the marks, or even what they look like. I have never seen any mark! When I did mine, I couldn't find any marks, and I have a couple of flywheels right now, and no marks. So get with it, put it on anyway you wish, get the job done and you will like it.
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I don`t know where the marks are, but I would guess they would be in the center area where the bolt holes are.
There are 12 different positions the FW can be bolted on. one is the correct position, or then the 11 others could be correct also. Are you a betting man? :) Charlie |
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