Look what I found... are these the marks? Does this mean my flywheel is not neutrally balanced?
Attachment 112476
Attachment 112477

Was there a corresponding mark on the crank? I've only seen a couple of marked F/Ws but they had a single mark, meaning they were balanced with the crank.

Let me get you a picture of my FSM. I don't believe that those are the marks.

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4ced7c51.jpg

Date of printing:

http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5cca9713.jpg

I dont know if there was a mark on the crank. I didnt know about the marks back when i removed all of the parts at a pull,n,save. Does anyone know what those marks mean? If the auto flywheel doesnt have any marks, should I just bolt it up?

Jooseppi Luna, It doesnt have a mark on the area that is in the picture you showed. I'm not sure if I should just bolt it up.

I marked the auto flywheel and the crank, and removed it. I could not find any marks on the auto flywheel.

The mark can be very hard to see. I you're sure theres no witness mark on the crank, I would just install the F/W... but if your worried get it matched to the one you took off.

Alright, while I have the tranny off, what should I replace? I need to get a pilot bearing, maybe new rear crank seal? What else? Thanks

Shift bushings if they need it, check for oil leaks. New oil of course, I use Mobil One 5W20, seems to work well if they have a few miles on the clock. Or ATF is what most folks use. Just make sure there's not 90W in there. Since your car is a 5 cylinder I might consider replacing the slave cylinder if you have a little extra cashola in the budget. Its such a bugger with the tranny installed.

A professional shop would balance and resurface the flywheel, reinstall it with new bolts, install a new pilot bearing, release bearing (the one that rides on the input shaft collar), new pressure plate, new clutch disc. They do this because they don't want the car coming back in. The rear engine crankshaft seal is not feasibly replaceable without dropping the oil pan and the crank.

In your case, I'm betting you have more time than money, and I'm betting that you can get that transmission back out in a couple of hours if something isn't quite right. So, the trick is to replace only what you probably have to for safety and reliability.

The flywheel looks pretty good in pictures, so I'd degrease it, the pressure plate, and the clutch disc with brake parts cleaner. Assuming that the disc is reasonably unworn as is the pressure plate. I would install a new pilot bearing (they're like $7), and release bearing (they're about $50). Maybe skip the release bearing if the one you have feels really smooth and you really need that $50. I would measure the waist on the flywheel bolts, see attached snipped from the factory service manual. If not within spec, get new ones ($5.95 each, I think .. ouch) and torque as specified. They stretch when you torque them and are TIGHT!

Up to you, but I like to install new clutch and slave cylinder and rubber flex hose. I do this because bleeding that clutch is a booger and I'd hate to find that the reason the stupid thing wouldn't bleed was because of a leaky something or another. But again, I bet you have more time than I do. ;)

I just finished manual conversions on my '85 300TD and '76 300D, so I can definitely relate. If you haven't seen those threads, they are here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/334272-300d-4-speed-swap-you-happy-3.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/338207-w115-300d-4-speed-manual-swap.html

Hope this helps.

-Dan

When I replaced the clutch on my TD I had the F/W resurfaced, I was advised that resurfacing would probably extend the life of disc so I did it and the car shifts smooth as can be. When I did my 79 240D ten years ago I did not resurface the F/F and now with 60K its starting to chatter a little. Resurfacing was cheap and maybe worth it.

I was looking for machine shops in my area, and I found one. My brother and I drove down there and the man said they dont do that kind of stuff, and he doesnt know anyone in town who does. Should I just bolt up the flywheel as is? and hope for the best.

Thats what I would do if it doesn't look seriously groved/groovey. What all are you replacing?

I bought a pilot bearing on eBay, that's basically all I'm going to replace. The clutch disk looks pretty good, I'm probably going to just use everything I have, unless it actually NEEDS to be replaced.