[QUOTE=Meles;3152776]Well, for reasons I'd like to not elaborate on (my stupidity), I have need to replace a prechamber on my OM603. I successfully removed one on my junk engine, but the one with damaged threads in the current vehicle would not come out and is irreversibly damaged after the attempt.
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I might be able to figure out a cheap way to get the Prechamber out if I knew more details as to what happend to the Prechamber and what Tools you were using to try to pull it out.
Also I am not sure if it is only the Prechamber itself damaged or the Head?

If only the Internal threads of the Prechamber that the normal Prechamber Puller Tool uses are stripped I have Taps that size. M22-1.5

I also have My own type of Prechamber Puller that is different from the standard one; I believe it has a longer threaded area. Meaning it might be possible to go inside and take the Tap and thread down further inside the Prechamber and install the Puller and yank it out.

Another way might be to do the above using JB Weld before the Puller is screwd into place; let that Epoxy cure and attempt to yank it out.

Could you post a pic of the buggered part?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3153218]This is a great suggestion. My puller's threads are trashed from trying to get the injector out. I don't see any harm in trying this.

Another poster liked OM606 idea. It doesn't quite slap in and I don't have a hoist, etc. The cylinder task is daunting enough, though the price is rising. Heading towards a thousand dollars plus a lot of work all from my boneheaded mistake.

loneranger is having problems getting out PC chambers on his rodbender too. You might have to have a machine shop EDM it out, as disimilar metals can be really bonded together. Damn aluminum!
The 606 would be a immense pleasure I assure you. A member sold one in SoCal for around $2000 last month. The extra electronics involved need to be solved but I think thats doable and you need an intercooler to make it work properly. The 4V engine has incredible fuel economy if you don't push it, but when you do push it the torque is huge and you will smile big time


[QUOTE=Meles;3153321]

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

[QUOTE=dieseldiehard;3153337]loneranger is having problems getting out PC chambers on his rodbender too. You might have to have a machine shop EDM it out, as disimilar metals can be really bonded together. Damn aluminum!
The 606 would be a immense pleasure I assure you. A member sold one in SoCal for around $2000 last month. The extra electronics involved need to be solved but I think thats doable and you need an intercooler to make it work properly. The 4V engine has incredible fuel economy if you don't push it, but when you do push it the torque is huge and you will smile big time


Longranger sounds like He is having trouble getting the Prechamber Retaining Ring off; but I am not sure and ask about that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Meles;3153321]I am finding this confusing as the Injector should have already been removed before the Prechamber Retaining Ring and the Prechamber can be removed.

Also were you useing a Real Prechamber Pulling Tool or similar to in the Picture. The 22-1 threads is for the Prechambers that have a Slotted Retaining Ring the 22-1.5 is for the Prechamber (angle Injection) that uses the Serrated Prechamber Retianing Ring and the Injector Screws directly into the top of the Prechamber.

I also think it takes a Slide Hammer like is in the Pic to do a decent job pulling the Prechambers.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3153381]I miswrote. The retaining ring was a pain to get off. I used a 50/50 mix of acetone/atf and let soak overnite. Used plumbing torch on metal before putting penetrant around. Ditto on prechambers. Wipe up mixture and blow torch again right before breaking loose.
I've got a slide hammer setup, but the adapter is stripped. I am sure that if the stripped adapter were welded to the old prechamber, it then would be able to pull it out. I am not familiar with welding so not sure if the tools could get into the front prechamber.

Wish I had done the JBweld before the two failed attempts. That might have worked. The threads are so gone I think it would surely just break loose. I wonder about welding? Might be something a little better than JBweld.

Would the M22-1.5 be able to thread into the hole to the body where the glow plugs comes in? I'd be concerned about metal shaving falling through prechamber into head. Ditto for JBweld chunks.

Welding the tool would be too much heat on the head. I had made a thread chaser of sorts before by beveling out some channels on an old injector body. Would the tap work better? I am thinking getting the threads as receptive as possible and JBwelding the tool in over night. Is there anything better than JBWeld?

The holes at the bottom of the Prechamber are not not so big and the Prechamber could be stuffed with Toilet Paper to prevent things from falling inside.
If the threads on you Tool Are stripped it might be a bad idea to try.

Was your Prechamber Tool a Real one of was it one of Mercedes resourses Bicycle Hub Pullers? Or a Homemade Tool made from a Bicycle Hub Puller?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It worked on an undamaged prechamber on my 300k miles merc. I wanted one of those bicycle hub pullers because they were cheap. It was from baum tool and came with a slide hammer. The threads on the tool are bad enough that I would never use on a good prechamber, but their still pretty good. Its the prechamber itself that is mangled.

I am holding off on doing anything today (50 minute round trip to get to the car). Do you think I should reuse my home made chaser to get the threads in the best possible shape? I could try to acquire a tap, but my thinking is that might be worse at this stage. Use something better than JBweld. I stupidly have used the quick version in the past and was not impressed.
Things better than JB weld:
1. "autobody panel adhesive"
2. Loctite 324 industrial adhesive $20 for a small bottle and another $30 for the Loctite 7075 spray activator
3. Couple of spots of 3M 4200 UV cure to hold while a nice bead of 3m 5200 sets, maybe $12 a tube each (urethane). Urethane is used to join body parts in production, and it is generally more flexible than epoxy. I have heard than urethane glued body joints can be stronger than the steel they join.
4. Based on my experience of fixing stuff that seemed nearly hopeless, I would recommend PC7

I am leaning to the 3M 5200 because its got some flex and might be less likely to break with slide hammering? (what do I know). 7 days to set though! Suggestions anyone.

This worked. It probably would not have been necessary if I'd removed the glow plug! I guess if one bought the tool and legitimately could not get the prechamber removed after one attempt, then I'd epoxy since the tool is probably damaged too at this point.

Getting older and I am clearly going to have to become super methodical with notes. Did a test removal on older car and took the plug out first. Thought I'd done so on this car. In my defense the glow plug wire was attached with a much smaller nut (nut built into harness missing). I am still shaking my head on this.

Didn't notice the glow plug issue until I had the intake manifold off. Replacing shutoff valve today and putting back together. May the maker help me from another Mr. Magoo foul up.

Car is up and running. Prechamber pull and replacement has been a success. Now, I've got to return bunch of parts for the aborted head gasket replacement.

X2 on the getting Old issues.
It seems like all the things I do these days are much harder then they used to be.
Some of the issues are Physical; lack of strength and dextarity and some Mental; especially when it comes to remembering things.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I seem to remain as systematic as ever so farat 70. Just slower to initialize and get a job wrapped up. Twenty years ago if a load of parts came in for one of my cars chances are they would be installed in the next twenty four hours. Now I may not even get to it for a week or so. Results in an almost continuous line up of things to be done.